FULKERSON FAMILY HISTORY
91st Day
Father Lempfrit- We had quite a nice camping spot and there was a little spring there that was most refreshing.... At 3 o'clock we saw a number of Indians going by at the far end of the patch of prairie. This time it must be the murderers! A brave Canadian who was traveling with us as far as Walla Walla offered to go on ahead and scout out who the Indians might be. His proposal was accepted and he was off like a flash. He was there in ten minutes. We halted so that we could ascertain what the result of his mission would be. If you could only have seen the American ladies! They all believed that they heard the sound of a gunshot! "Look, they are killing the Canadian," and "he will never come back again," said another. "They have massacred him." Fifteen minutes later the Canadian returned in triumph, carrying with him a bow and a handful of arrows. When they saw him these timorous ladies said, "These are the weapons he took from the enemy when he had overcome them." The best part of the story is that the Americans again had to swallow their words. Quite simply, what had happened was that a friend of the Canadian was traveling with some Blackfeet Indians, and the head of this little group had made the Canadian a present of a bow and some arrows! At last we arrived at our camp site at the foot of the Blue Mountains....
Medorem Crawford- Started at 7-1/2 rose a most tremendous hill the highest I have rose on the Route, got a fall from a horse hurt my foot some. The road is more precipitous than ever, up & down and constantly over rocks. Crossed several streams. Stopped for dinner at 10 oclock started at 1, and commenced climbing hills again crossed several small streams and found good grass most of the way came to the stream on which we camped last night. Camped at 4 traviled 10 miles.
Joel Palmer- We made about twelve miles. The road is up Burnt river, and the most difficult road we have encountered since we started. The difficulties arise from the frequent crossings of the creek, which is crooked, narrow and stony. We were often compelled to follow the road, in its windings for some distance, over high, sidelong and stony ridges, and frequently through thickets of brush. The stream is about ten or twelve yards in width and is generally rapid. The hills are high and covered with grass.
Mary Black- Tilla was very sick in the night. I gave her a dose of worm medicine. When it operated she vomited and was very sick. We are nooning in a place almost destitute of grass. John fed his horses some oats. The roads have been side mountain mostly & hilly. Our drive this afternoon has been as rough as well could be. We camped near Burnt River and got good bunch grass by going a mile up the Mt.
Algeline Ashley, 1852- I write on my lap with the wind rocking the wagon.
92nd Day
Father Lempfrit- We left rather late as we did not have far to go— in fact we set up our camp only six miles away. During the evening an Indian came to our camp and spoke with the Canadian who was traveling with us. This Canadian had lived for several years among these Indians and spoke their language fluently. His wife belonged to the Nez Perce Indian nation. The Indian told him that he had been sent by the chiefs of the Nez Perces and Cayuses to find out if there were any Fathers traveling with the caravan. He told them that several days ago they had hidden themselves in the prairie grass in order to watch out for the waggon in which the Fathers were traveling. However, they had not been able to identify it for they thought that the Fathers' waggon must be quite special in appearance. They went back and reported to the Cayuse chief that they hadn't seen any priests and that all the waggons looked exactly alike. The chief then said to another Indian, "you go yourself now, try and speak with the Fathers or anyone else belonging to the caravan company because I am sure that the priests are coming and we wish to see them on their way through this country." I was delighted with the good news this Indian gave to me. He told me that his chief had sent word to the brigands telling them that if any one of them dared to do us any harm or harm any of our company he would have to answer for it to the chief himself. He required that we should all be treated with respect. The Indian then informed us that our Fathers were no longer at Walla Walla, they were now at Oregon City. Finally, the Great Chief had told him that he had letters from our Fathers to hand over to me. This last piece of news was balm to my soul. I treated the good Indian to my best and gave him some small presents. He hardly waited for my reply and left so abruptly that I must admit that his behaviour caused me some misgivings. The Americans, especially, believed that we were about to fall into a trap. I did the best I could to set their fears to rest but these poor people put the worst possible construction upon this event....
Medorem Crawford- Horses strayed far from camp and instead of an early start as we intended we got off at 9 oclock we left the Branch and gradually a rose a long hill. Stopped for dinner on a small stream at 12 o’clock started at 2-1/2 & continued to rise by degrees. The country over which we have traviled today is mostly covered with Bunch Grass which the Horses are very fond of. We at last found the top of the mountain at a distance we could see what we suppose to be the Blue mountains and they struck us with terror their lofty peaks seemed a resting place for the clouds. Below us was a large plain and at some distance we could discover a tree which we at once recognized as "the lone tree" of which we had before heard. We made all possible speed and at o'clock the advance party arrived at the Tree nearly an hour before the cattle. The Tree is a large Pine standing in the midst of an immense plain intirely alone. It presented a truly singular appearance and I believe is respected by every traviler through this almost Treeless Country. Within a few yards we found pleanty of water and we soon made ourselves comfortable by a good fire. As soon as we arrived at the top of the hill in sight of the Blue mountains felt an uncommon chilly wind which increased so as to be uncomfortable before we arrived. As soon as we reached the valley we found our old friend Sage flourishing in a most unwelcome manner. The grass about camp was not good, traviled 18 miles.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about twelve miles. The road exceeded in roughness that of yesterday. Sometimes it pursued its course along the bottom of the creek, at other times it wound its way along the sides of the mountains, so sidelong as to require the weight of two or more men on the upper side of the wagons to preserve their equilibrium. The creek and road are so enclosed by the high mountains, as to afford but little room to pass along, rendering it in some places almost impassable. Many of the mountains viewed from here seem almost perpendicular, and of course present a barren surface. The eye is occasionally relieved by a few scrubby cedars; but along the creek is found birch, bitter cottonwood, alder, &c., in quantity, and several kinds of brush and briars, so impenetrable as to preclude ingress. The road pursues its course through these thickets, the axe having been employed; but it is so very narrow as almost to prevent travel. A little digging, and the use of the axe, united with the erection of bridges, would make this a very good road. At first view this road appeared to us impassable, and so difficult of travel, as almost to deter us from the attempt; but knowing that those who had preceded us had surmounted the difficulties, encouraged us to persevere. It required much carefulness, and the exercise of skill on the part of our drivers to pass along and avoid the dangers of the way. We pursued our route without any loss, with the exception of that attending the breakage of two wagon tongues, done in crossing some deep ravines. We also experienced difficulty in finding our cattle, which had strayed away. Five miles from camp the road turns up a spring branch to the right, which we followed two miles, crossing it very frequently; it then turns up the mountain of the left, until it strikes another ravine. We followed up this for one mile, where water makes its appearance. Here is found a good camp. The road then takes to the left up the hill, and then down to a dry branch: here is a good camp, one mile to running water. This portion of the road is solid and of good travel.
Mary Black- Late in the evening. We halted today on account of Mr. Durhams little sons being very sick. I have been washing all day. I never saw nicer water for the purpose. The bed of the creek are composed of large rock which stand up out of the water and one can walk in on them and dip up the water without roiling it. John started early this morning to make brakes for both his wagons. He has finished the one on this wagon.
93rd Day
Father Lempfrit- That night we camped on the banks of a little river that was chock-full of salmon and we caught a large number of them. We left at 8 o'clock in the morning and the further we went the more beautiful the country became. The Blue Mountain region is quite delightful. What lovely scenery! How nature smiles here! What lovely groves of trees that nature has kept hidden away until it pleased her to send thither a handful of Europeans to admire some of her most beautiful creations. At 5 o'clock that evening we came to an immense plateau which was about fifteen miles wide by twenty-five miles long [Grande Ronde Valley]. As we were about to make our way down to this plateau we noticed a fine quarry of slate on the slope to the right. The trail that led down to the plateau was very steep with numerous spiral turns [Ladd Canyon Hill]. Those people on foot sometimes took a shortcut, a little path that was extremely steep and therefore very dangerous. I had already reached the prairie that lay at the foot of the plateau when I could not help but admire the courage of an American lady. In order to get down the hill this lady got hold of a plank from an abandoned waggon and after placing her child at one end of it she positioned herself at the other end. Then by making a little movement she set the plank in motion and slid straight down to the foot of the prairie without the slightest mishap. However I shuddered to think of the danger she was courting.
At last we arrived in the middle of this famous plateau called "Le Grand Rond." It is really one of the loveliest places in the whole world. Just imagine an enormous arena measuring about fifteen miles wide by twenty-five miles long, entirely surrounded by the most beautiful wooded mountains and watered by two lovely rivers. The extremely fertile soil supports a luxuriant vegetation and to the south there are some lovely rolling hills that seem to beg to be put under cultivation, being fatigued by producing nothing but trees whose branches fall to the ground from old age.
Two Indian nations have established their lodges at the foot of these lovely hills, the Nez Perces and the Cayuse. Their chiefs are "Le Grand Thuote [Tauitowe], chief of the Cayuse nation, and "Le grand chef Cinq Corbeaux" [Five Crows] of the Nez Perces.
Medorem Crawford- Horses far from camp this morning, found pleanty of frost on our beds and all about. Left camp at 8 oclock but was a long time finding the right trail. Cold wind from the Blue mountains on tops of which we soon discovered heaps of snow. Came to a large creek which we followed a while stopped for dinner at 12-1/2 o’clock. Started at 3 crossed the creek. Crossed 2 more creeks soon and camped at o’clock. We should have traviled on but we was afraid of being in the night without water, this is the difficulty of traviling without a Pilot. Found good wood, water, and grass about at our camp traviled 11 miles. Cold wind.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about fourteen miles. Two miles brought us to the creek again; the bottom here is of some extent. We followed this bottom for the distance of one mile; the road then led up the right hand branch, crossing several small branches, taking up a ravine to the left over a ridge, until it reaches the fork of the river; pursues its route up this river some six or seven miles, crossing it twice, then directs its course to the right, through a narrow ravine over the mountain, then strikes Dry Branch; we followed up this branch to running water, and near to a scrubby pine; here we encamped. The road has been solid and good. The hills and valleys appear well covered with grass.
Mary Black- Today & yesterday have both been cold. We halted today about 3 Oclock on account of the cold wind. It is as cold weather as we have the first of Nov. in Mo. It rained last night and we have come facing a cold west wind today & yesterday.
94th Day
Father Lempfrit- We camped on the heights of the Grand Ronde by the banks of the smaller of the two rivers that cross this immense prairie from south to north. The time is after dinner, about 4 to 5 in the evening. I go for a walk so that I can explore the country around us. Very soon the Indians come to seek me out to tell me that the two Great Chiefs of this Nation have come with their whole retinue to pay me a visit. "Wait a minute," I said to myself, "this now is the real thing, I am going to find myself in the presence of their Eminences! Well then, let us go and see these Great Chiefs." I set off at a gallop. When I arrived I was told that the chiefs were awaiting me in the tent of the Canadian who would serve as interpreter. Then came the solemn moment! Gathered round a great fire were thirteen Indians. Two of whom were more formally dressed than the others. These Indians were Thuote [Tauitowe] and Five Crows. Both were dressed in the European fashion. They were wearing caps made from high quality blue cloth. Thuote sported a green suit, a red waistcoat and pale blue trousers made from a very fine material. Five Crows was also carefully dressed. They took off their caps as they greeted me. I walked around the assembled groups, shaking hands with everyone.
Then the Great Chief spoke for a short while and the good Canadian immediately repeated in translation the reason for this official visit. "Father we have come especially to see you. We have known for a long time that priests would be coming this way but of you we learned that you are not only a priest, you are a doctor also. Here we are completely forsaken. We have no one who can teach us the beautiful prayer. It is true that we had a Father amongst us but he abandoned us after the revolt [Whitman massacre] of some misguided wretches. You, Father, you must not do the same as the others who have all gone away to the sea [the Willamette Valley in territorial Oregon]. Stay here with us. We will obey you and we know you will want to instruct our young people and teach them the wonderful things you do beyond the great sea. Look, Father, see those lovely hills. We will cultivate these lands that are so fertile. Tell us where you would like us to establish our village, choose the place for our village yourself. We are hoping that if you remain here with us, the poor misguided people who have rebelled will be sorry for what they have done. We have tried really hard to bring them back but it was useless.
I then took the floor and spoke to them more or less as follows: "Great Chief and all of you who have come to see us. I am very moved to see you hastening here to greet the priests on their way through this country. This eagerness on your part is proof enough that you would be happy to welcome amongst you a priest who could teach you the law of the Great Master of Life. Alas! You have lived your lives up till now in ignorance of this beautiful law. I can assure you that I would be very happy to be able to stay here with you. You are situated in a really enchanting place. I, however, have made myself responsible for really urgent official letters for my superiors and it is absolutely necessary for me to continue my journey to deliver these to them. I promise you, however, that I will do everything in my power to come back here as soon as possible. Indeed, I trust that in about two weeks I will definitely be able to come here and serve you as your priest. It will give me great pleasure to teach your children to know about the Master of Life. They must also learn the skills that are necessary for making life more agreeable and less harsh. Thus, you can rely on me."
When I had finished speaking the Great Chief seemed satisfied. Then he said to the Canadian that he would like to hold a big festival for me on the morrow. It was already very late however. How could he collect all his people together? Immediately he sent off several messengers to the camps that were furthest away. Their orders were to summon everyone to assemble here at 2 o'clock the following day. I stayed with them until 10 o'clock that evening after which I departed. The good Canadian had been ordered not to tell me about the proposed festival but he dropped a hint that enabled me to guess that they wanted to do something special for me.
Medoem Crawford- Saturday very cold morning. Horses far from camp. Started at 8 o’clock found good places for camping which we might have come to last night. Commenced rising gradually at 10 o'clock continued to rise until 12 when we came to a tremendous hill to descend. The mountains on our left were close by they rose gradualy and were covered with Pine Trees. Our descent lasted for near an hour, about midway of the hill was a little water course crossing our path & afforded us a resting place around this place were several pine trees. I noticed the White Pine and the Spruce Pine. Some were very tall & slim. From this little grove down the hill was more difficult all were obliged to dismount for safety. It was very sidling and uncomfortable rocky. Below was a most beautiful valley as I ever saw. We found good grass, a delightful road, & a fertile country in the valley, we crossed some small water courses and camp on a beautiful Creek at 3 o'clock good grass, & water & an abundance of wood traviled 20 miles found several well beaten trails leading from camp but none appeared fresh. After dark two Indians came to camp on horseback. They were of a different tribe from any which we had seen. They had traps and appeared to have been out but a short time. They told us that we could get to Walla Walla in 3 days.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about sixteen miles. The road runs up the branch for one mile, then turns to the left over the hill, pursuing a very winding course for some thirteen miles, until it reaches a slough in Powder river bottoms. Powder river is a stream of some eight or ten yards in width, having its source in the high range of mountains on our left, which mountains in many places are covered with snow." An abundance of pine timber is found covering the sides of these mountains, sometimes extending far down into the bottoms, which here are between six and seven miles in width. The soil is fertile and would undoubtedly yield abundantly. To our right, at the distance of fifteen or twenty miles, is presented a high range of mountains, their base covered with grass, their sides with heavy pine timber. At their summit they are entirely destitute of vegetation: some of these are very lofty, their peaks present a very lustrous appearance, resembling the snow mountains. This shining, dazzling appearance they possess, is derived I think from the material of which they are composed, being a kind of white clay.
Mary Black- So cold this morning I can hardly write, heavy frost and ice. We meet large pack trains. Met 11 yesterday. We are in Powder river valey. Camped in hearing of a quartz mill.
95th Day
Father Lempfrit- I had a really beautiful night, my imagination lulled to sleep by the loveliness of this picturesque spot. On top of this, the genuine eagerness of these good Indians to have a priest in their midst transported me to the Seventh Heaven. During the morning an ambassador from the Great Chief came to see me. This messenger who knew a little English at once asked me if I was agreeable to receiving a visit from the whole tribe. Having acquiesced, he took me by the hand and showed me a small hillock on which he asked me to stand without moving away from it. Our Americans had not the least idea what was going to happen. As for myself, I had no fears at all but I must admit that my situation caused me some discomfort. For over an hour I stood there, looking around in all directions but there was nothing to be seen. At last, bathed in a cloud of dust, I perceived a long file of horsemen advancing in orderly fashion. Soon two flags fluttering in the breeze could be seen. Just at this moment however, an Indian of an enemy tribe pointed out to us that we were running the risk of being massacred by this troop of Indians advancing towards us. "Look at these two flags," he said, "the white flag is good but the other one is red, that is the signal for war. They are going to kill you all." Then he went on to demonstrate that they were going to make "poum, poum, poum" on us. This had the effect of making our Americans tremble with apprehension. I tried to reassure them by reminding them that this could not possibly be a war party as an ambassador had been sent to me to announce that a festival was to be held. Then Mr. O'Neil suggested to me that we hoist a flag as a sign of peace and he asked me for a bit of white cloth which he promptly attached to a long stick that Americans use as a horsewhip. The Captain [Stone] who was a pretty poor violin scraper dashed off to his waggon to get his instrument.
We arranged ourselves in a semicircle and then we advanced slowly to meet the procession. Now we are face to face! A dozen Indians mounted on superb horses had small drums that they tapped lightly with little drumsticks. The drums were bound around with horsehair and the sound they produced could either be muffled or very loud according to the wishes of the player. Behind them came the singers beating out the measure by striking the saddles of their horses. We were the first to halt. Then the long line of horses peeled off to the right and to the left and the two flags were brought up and set up beside our own. The white flag had a red cross at its centre and the other flag, the one that had inspired so much fear in the hearts of our Americans, was a red flag emblazoned with the arms of the United States. The Great Chiefs Five Crows and Thuote came forward while their Indian musicians played a fanfare. They shook hands with us, then several horsemen rode up and circled round our flags and immediately the peace-pipe ceremony got under way. I noticed that in circumstances such as these it is the newcomers who are expected to provide the tobacco. As we were unaware of the etiquette required by this ceremony the Indians let us see the great peace-pipe empty, then a huge amount of tobacco was hastily brought up. Later on the two Great Chiefs requested me to follow them into the Canadian's tent. It was here that they repeated to me in essence what they had said the previous evening but this time I learned that this festival had been prepared especially for me, the objective being to commit me to come and establish my mission amongst their people! Then they brought me a large roll of papers. I thought I would find there the letters they had told me about, but instead, I found fourteen beautifully coloured engravings. These were the fourteen stations of the Road to the Cross. They told me that they had been given them by a Catholic Father. I also found other religious engravings amongst which was a Catholic Ladder. These were the letters they had to deliver to me! I told them to take great care of these things and that we would hang them up in the church I would come and build for them. After this short conversation, I went back to have a look at the festival.
As the Great Chief had earlier announced that trading could take place most of the Indians had gone off to fetch horses and other items of barter. They came back shortly bringing some magnificent horses that we could acquire for very little; for example a very poor gun or a blanket could be exchanged for a horse that in France would cost at least one hundred Louis. I spent a little time walking about among the rows of Indians as I wanted to study the variety of their costumes and more especially the colours of them. I had previously noticed that there were eighty-three horsemen on the right and only about thirty on the left. I was told that the reason why the group on the left was smaller was because many in this group had gone away to their village to fetch horses. Only then did I realize that the group on the right consisted entirely of women while the group on the left were all men.
Shortly afterwards a large number of men and women carrying baskets filled with potatoes and Indian corn arrived. Sometimes there were two riders on the same horse, a man sitting up front and a woman sitting behind on the rump of the animal. This sight called to my mind the observation of an American lady, who came up to me and having separated me from the other people in our party, showed me an Indian woman eating the lice on her man's head! The Indian woman searched for them skillfully and then, with great delicacy, picked them out with her small fingers and nibbled them as we might relish a grain of salt! I have no idea what exquisite taste this good Indian woman could possibly find in this condiment! Perhaps it might have tasted like crab sauce! ... The festival went on until evening. It was not until about 7 o'clock that the chief's messenger called out to the crowd that the party was over and that everyone should return to their villages. In a few minutes this huge swarm of Indians had vanished.
Medorem Crawford- Started at 7-1/2 o'clock with our Indians for Guide. They took us a northern direction & put us on the companies trail about 10 o'clock we then came to the Creek which we had left in the morning and followed it down. We discovered a band of horses on the other side of the Creek. Our Indians left us about noon and crossed the Creek to these horses which were being driven in the same direction we were going. We saw more horses ahead. Came to an Indian village at 2 o'clock and camped near them, traviled 18 miles.
The first thing to be attended to after we camped was to assertain whether we could get any provisions from the Indians. We found to our great joy they had pleanty and instead of starving as we expected we were able to trade enough fish to last us to Dr. Whitmans. [This was in 1846, one year before the historic Whitman Massacre.] There were several lodges & they were well clad & had hundreds of good horses and an abundance of provision. I have seen no Indians since I started which appear so happy & well provided for as these. The beneficial influence of the Missionary Society appears to have reached here. They attended morning and evening devotion in our camp.
Joel Palmer-This day we traveled about ten miles; our course was down the valley of Powder river; eight miles brought us to the crossing of the same, one mile to the middle fork, and one to the third fork. There is good ground for encampments at any point along these streams. At our camp we were visited by an Indian chief of the tribe Caaguas, accompanied by his son. He was of a friendly disposition; his object in visiting us was principally to barter for cattle; he had in his possession thirty or more horses.
Mary Black- We passed by Mr. Ringo yesterday evening. Came 8 miles to this camp. Got supper after night. It is raining this morning. We are in the valey skirted by snow crested pine covered mountains. We are nooning on the summit of the Blue Mounts. We have been coming up all the fore noon. The horses are very tired. Drizzling all the time too. We travailed till late through a cold rain, stopped close to a deserted store house. I cooked supper in it. Tilla is very sick.
96th Day
Father Lempfrit- As we had to be on our way early that morning I bade farewell to the good Indians after the festival. At first light I was away on my horse so as to be able to explore this attractive country. The further I went the more enchanted I was with what I discovered. Oh! How many castles in Spain did I build while riding past these lovely hills covered with magnificent fir trees. In my imagination I was already established amongst those good Indians as their priest! Soon, however, the trail became very arduous. At about four o'clock there was a very steep hill to go down. I made my way down the hill, leading my horse by the bridle. When I reached the bottom I came on a little American girl who had fallen off her horse. She was lying in a dust-filled, dried-out gully screaming at the top of her voice. I got this poor child out of the hole, luckily she was unhurt, she was just frightened. Then we came to a little valley through which flowed a river abounding in crayfish [the gunshot-echoing Grande Ronde River Canyon]. When our company arrived I showed them a basketful of them. "Well," they said to me, "you go ahead to catch crayfish instead of remaining behind to receive the excellent horse the Great Chief came to give you this morning. Since he did not find you, he went away, taking the horse with him." I confess that I was rather vexed with myself for having departed so precipitately.
Medorem Crawford- Horses strayed far from camp and scattered among the Indians' horses. The Indians showed moral honesty by bringing horses to us which had strayed by themselves to some distance. Started at 9-1/2 o'clock several Indians started with us one continued & said he would go to Dr. Whitmans. Commenced raising a Mountain by degrees. Came to trees, at first quite thin & without underbrush having fine grass. But as we arose we came to a densly timbered country, mostly pine & fir. The most beautiful tall straight trees. Our traviling through the timber was quite difficult as the path wound back and forth and many logs lay across it. We decended & arose a tremendous hill and about 3 o'clock our Indian Guide beckoned us to take a by path to find water, we did so and after traveling a few hundred yards found a little opening of timber & pleanty of good water & some grass. Camped here for the night tray. 10 miles. Cool & cloudy considerable of rain after dark. Horses got frightened tied some up & the rest remained near.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about twelve miles; for the first five or six miles, the road was quite level and good, it then follows a ridge dividing Powder River and Grand Round; this portion of the road is very uneven and stony. The road leading down into the valley of Grand Round, is circuitous, and its difficulty of travel enhanced by its roughness; it is about one and a half miles in length, to where it reaches the bottom. Grand Round is a valley, whose average width does not exceed twenty miles, and is about thirty miles in length; a stream of water of some twenty yards in width passes through this valley, receiving considerable addition to its volume from the many rivulets that pour down their waters from the mountains, by which this valley is enclosed. The bottoms are of rich friable earth, and afford grass of various kinds, among others that of red clover. There is a root here found in great abundance, and known as the camas, which is held in high repute by the Indians for some medicinal qualities it is thought to possess; wild flax and a variety of other plants grow in luxuriance, like to those I have observed.
Mary Black- Late in the evening. Encamped again in the Blue Mt. Rained all day. The road has been hills all the time. They say we will have better roads from here to the landing. We have good grass for the cattle.
97th Day
Father Lempfrit- Today we had an excellent camping spot, a very nice situation completely surrounded by tall fir trees. Right beside us flowed a river [Grande Ronde River] abounding in fish and in the shallow parts of the river one could scoop up quantities of crayfish. I went on ahead with the Canadian who was traveling with us. At first we climbed a very steep path, then, having arrived at the summit we saw a group of horsemen riding toward us and shouting at the top of their voices. For a moment I was apprehensive but was soon reassured when the good Indians came up to us. I much admired their beautiful horses. Soon, however, we had to take leave of them as the provisions they were carrying were putrid! This was indeed a travelling stench as the air was polluted everywhere they had been. We had hoped to find water but we had to go on for twelve more miles before we found any. Our horses were spent, the oxen refused to go any further and the night was about to descend upon us. The Captain wanted us to carry on further. We had three waggons with us, all the rest lagged behind. An unusual stratagem for preventing the Captain from pushing on was conceived by the people in the waggons behind us. All of a sudden one of their guides came galloping up and reported to the Captain that one of their waggons had overturned as it was going down a hill. Two men had been crushed under the weight of the vehicle. Can you imagine more agonizing news! At once I spurred my horse and we all went to the help of these unfortunate men. Soon however we learned that it was only a ruse to make us go back. It was a false alarm! [They were close to present-day Meacham, OR]
Medorem Crawford- Started at 8-1/2 and followed back our path until we came to the main trail when we pusued our dismal rout, Our path today led through more dense places & driving our pack animals & cattle was almost impossible. Occasionally we found a clear spot frequently several acres together and in the forenoon several little springs of water, towards evening we left the timber and found ourselves on a rolling Prairie of good soil. Continued to deceud until near sunset when to our great joy we found water and wood but poor grass. Camped traviled 20 miles.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about seven miles; the road runs across the upper end of Grand Round, to a small spring branch, when it again ascends the mountains. At this spring branch we pitched our camp, and while here, were visited by great numbers of Indians, including men, squaws, and papooses. These Indians have decidedly a better appearance than any I have met; tall and athletic in form, and of great symmetry of person; they are generally well clad and observe pride in personal cleanliness. They brought wheat, corn, potatoes, peas, pumpkins, fish, &c. which they were anxious to dispose of for cloths, calico, nankin and other articles of wearing apparel; they also had dressed deer skins and moccasins; they had good horses, which they offered in exchange for cows and heifers; they would gladly exchange a horse for a cow, esteeming the cow as of equal value.
An incident quite worthy of note occurred at this place. The chief Aliquot who had joined us at our other encampment, and had pursued this day's journey in company, had pitched his tent some three hundred yards to the rear of our camp. In the evening, in strolling about the camp, I came near his tent, and entered with the intention of employing his squaw in the soling of my moccasins; while she was engaged in this employment, a conversation had sprung up between the old chief and myself, in which he took occasion to ask me if I were a Christian, as also whether there were many upon the road; to which questions I of course answered in the affirmative, supposing that he merely wished to know, whether I classed myself with the heathen or Christians. On my return to our camp, some one of our party proposed that we should while away an hour or so, in a game at cards, which was readily assented to. We had but engaged in our amusement, when the old chief Aliquot made his appearance, holding a small stick in his hand; he stood transfixed for a moment, and then advanced to me, raising his hand, which held the stick in the act of chastising me, and gently taking me by the arm, said "Captain — Captain — no good; no good." You may guess my astonishment, at being thus lectured by a "wild and untutored savage," twenty five hundred miles from a civilized land. I inwardly resolved to abandon card playing forever.
Mary Black- The men are stopping to trade for some beef. The roads have been fine since we left the Daily ranch at the foot of the Mt. Some men at the quartz mill gave John a fine hound that some emigrants had left at the house just before we came to this. A fox hunter had a mate for him and offered John a sack of flour, 50 lbs. for him, worth here $6.50. John sold it to Mr. Durham for $5.00. Intends taking it in horse feed. It looks almost like a miracle.
98th Day
Father Lempfrit- We had a very bad camp site and as a result of this we lost half our animals. Nearly all of them strayed during the night in search of a little water. We had let them graze at random, consequently when morning came we found ourselves without any oxen. We had a great deal of difficulty getting them back. The poor old man who had died the previous evening was buried. Thirteen of our oxen were still missing at 11 o'clock. Finally, we left around noon so that we could make a little headway. On our way out of this area we came on grassy clearings in the forest. The grass was parched and yellowed by the heat of the sun. These patches of prairie looked like fields of fully ripened corn. Then we came upon huge trees which hung long clumps of blackish moss.
Medorem Crawford- Our Indian guide told us we would get to Dr. Whitman's today but we hardly expected it as our animals were very much jaded. But it was nearer than we expected and we 'arrived at 3 o'clock and camped near his house traviled 8 m. Dr. Whitman is a Missionary of the Presbyterian Order. He has been in the Country six years. He has a very comfortable house and is farming to a considerable extent. He has a thrashing machine & a grinding mill all under one roof driven by waterpower. Many Indians around him. I was never more pleased to see a house or white people in my life, we were treated by Dr. and Mrs. Whitman with the utmost kindness. We got what provision we wanted on very reasonable terms. I have just heard of the death of young man who started from Independence with us. He was with the Hudson Bays Company and got drowned himself and horse crossing the Snake River soon after he left us. What is to me remarkable it was his gun and by an accident of his hand that put an end to poor Baily at Independence Rock. A small detachment, Forces, from the hind company came up.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about seven miles. From Grand Round the road ascends the Blue Mountains, and for two miles is quite steep and precipitous; and to such an extent, as to require six yoke of oxen, or more, to be attached to a wagon; from the summit of these mountains is presented a rolling country for some four miles, alternately prairie and groves of yellow pine timber. In the prairie the grass is quite dry, but among the groves of timber it is green and flourishing. The road is very stony; at the end of four miles it takes down the mountain to Grand Round river, one mile in distance; it then crosses. Here is another bottom covered with grass and bushes, where we pitched our encampment. It is a remarkable circumstance that when individuals are engaged in conversation, their voices can be heard distinctly at a quarter of a mile distance; the discharge of a gun resembles that of a cannon, and is echoed from hill to hill, the reverberations continuing for some length of time.
Mary Ann Boatman- Morning came after the usual hours of night had passed. Oh what a lovely sight met our gaze. The sun was pushing up his golden rim in the far a way eastern horizon, threading all the mountain tops and trees with threads of gold. The sight was unexplainable to a tired lot of emigrants who had traveled a 1000 miles without having the privilege of resting under one of God's natural shade made for the benefit of man and beast. The green trees with their sweet odor of pine and the rich perfume of wild flowers were so refreshing to all. But little did we realize the sufering of two human beings only a short distance a way. Fires blazing high, all busy making ready for another days journey, after all had partaken of the ration allowance and camp utensils safely stored a way in their usual place. As the men came with the teames . . . two men come up out of the woods. Bare headed and . . . what clothes that remained hanging on their frail bodies, torn in shreds. Their feet cut and bleeding and faces as pale as dead men. They were lank and starved all most to death. They had nothing to eat but wild berries and young twigs from the brush for 12 days. They were 2 of a party of 6 that started down Snake River in their wagon beds for boats. In going through a narrow canyon where the river made its course over a steep falls, all of the party were lost but those 2. Every thing was gone, they were lucky, if luck one may term it, thrown close to the bank on the side of the river that the wagon road was. The bank was all most perpendicular with a few small shrubs growing on the side of the bank, but they managed, in some way, to grasp hold of the bushes and climb to the top of the bank. There they were, miles from any one in a strange mountain country. No food or clothes to speak of, no means of obtaining the staff of life, only guided by natural instinct which way to go. After 12 days wanderin without food, except wild berries and young sprouts, they had come within hearing of our men when they were driving the cattle to camp ... Their attention attracted, and thinking perhaps there was a little chance for life, hurried as fast as their languid condition would allow them. They arrived at our camp just as we were ready to start. Oh, what a sight met our gaze. Two emaciated human beings almost starved, feet lacerated and bleedin, clothes torn to shreds, pale and shrunken cheeks, eyes dull, lips and tongue parched for the want of water. They told their story. They had been 2 of the unfortunate who had listen to the tails of the traders and had lost all but their lives.
Companions and boat, all were lost. They were soon feed and clothed as good as we could.... Our boys almost fit them out as our dear brother who had pass a way from earth and needed none of his earthly possession. They were given to them. After they were . . . clothed and fed, we move on and left them to their fate.
Mary Black- Morning, we laid by here yesterday at the junction of Daily and Grand Ronde Road, on account of Liza Durhams being too sick to travail. Jackson, Ringo, and some of our friends of Kirks Train, we had not seen since we left, are camped with us. Thompson passed by yesterday morning. The name of the creek is Birch Creek. Tilla has been very sick for several days, which has gave me such a press of work, I have not had time to write.
99th Day
Father Lempfrit- The trail was extremely rough. We emerged from the lovely fir forests at about 2 o'clock and at last left behind us the long range of mountains. Ahead of us the country was quite flat. Now we had a new horizon. It seemed as though we saw a vast expanse of sea in the distance, for the scorched prairies give the landscape a bluish hue. We camped on the banks of the Umatilla River and there we found the remains of gardens that the poor Indians had cultivated before the Walla Walla revolt. The country is extremely fertile.
Medorem Crawford- Having rec'd very bad treatment from the Indians we concluded to get away from here as soon as possible & try to find more grass, some of our company started before noon but we could not get ready until 3-1/2 oclock when we started down about 4 miles and found the rest of our company camped in an excelent spot. Forces came up also after dark.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about ten miles. The road ascended the mountain for one and a half or two miles, then wound along the ridge crossing many deep ravines, and pursuing its route over high craggy rocks; sometimes directing its course over an open plain, at others through thick groves of timber, winding among fallen trees and logs, by which the road was encumbered. The scenery is grand and beautiful and cannot be surpassed; the country to a great distance is rough in the extreme. It may strictly be termed a timber country, although many small prairies are dotted over its surface. The valleys are beautiful and the soil presents a very rich appearance. We encamped in an opening, on the south side of a range of mountains running to the north and found water in plenty in the bottom of the ravine, on our left, about one fourth of a mile from the road. The timber growing in this region is principally yellow pine, spruce, balsam fir, and hemlock; among the bushes I noticed laurel.
Mary Ann Boatman- We finally began our descent of the Snake River mountains, a rough and uneven road requiring the greatest skill of driver to keep oxen and wagon from going hundreds of feet down the side of the mountain. On onward we go. Now we have reached the Blue Mountains and camped at the foot of them where we had plenty of good, clear, cold water and wood in boundance. When we got to the Grand Ronde Valley, ... we found a lot of settlers in the valley resting after their long trip and grazing their cattle. It was quite a sight, the huge camp of tents and covered wagons.
One evening, just about sundown, we saw 12 or 15 Indians come riding up, looking pretty mean . . . and seemed quite excited, and did more talking among themselves than was usual, but when they rushed in among the cattle, picked out a fine ox and lassoed him, talking angrily all the while, we didn't know what to think.
Of course the man that owned the ox was indignant, and while none of us could understand what the Indians said, this man kept telling them in loud, angry tones (as if by raising his voice he could make them understand). "Look here, you can't take off with my ox like that. I tell you, I won't stand it. I just bought that ox from a trader a few days ago." . . . Hearing the confusion an old fellow came up who had been living out West and who told us a lot about conditions there and about the Indians, and what we might expect. "Friends" he drawled, "I speak Chinook. Maybe I can get at this."
Things looked pretty bad, and it begin to seem as if real trouble was brewing. You couldn't blame the settler for not just standing by and seeing a perfectly good ox he had just paid good money for taken from him under his very nose. But you didn't want any serious trouble started with the Indians either.
Presently the interpreter turned around and said, "Somebody's got to lose on this deal. This fellow says he bought the ox from a trader, too. Looks mighty like a slick deal to me. Probably some rascal has went and sold you and him the same animal. Maybe sold him to more. I don't know. But if I was you, now, if I were in your place, friend, I'd just let the Injun have it peaceful like and not no fuss, for, either way, whether it's you that gets the ox or the trader that cheated him, it's all the same to him. And he and his tribe'll take it out on white folks, maybe on this party, maybe the next one."
So, they explained the best they could to the Indians and they rode off and peace . . . settled down again over the valley, but I think the man who had been cheated felt it was at a pretty high price, for money as well as cattle was scarce."
[Editor’s Note: Unfortunately, Mary Ann’s account of her journey ends abruptly here. She was about five months pregnant at this point in the journey. Sadly, this ends the woman’s view of the Oregon Trail with our two other women diarists, Keturah Belknap and Agnes Stewart having also ended their journals earlier in the trip. We will bring in some new diarists to take their place.]
100th Day
Father Lempfrit- The Mission established by our Fathers was eighteen miles away but having learned that they had to abandon this post I decided to leave for Oregon City. Several Americans who wanted to have some fresh meat sent an agent to Fort Walla Walla to buy beef. My patients were all fully convalescent. The pure air they were breathing here contributed greatly to their recovery. We left rather late today. About 2 o'clock in the afternoon there was dissent among our Americans and seven of the waggons of our company left in order to go and join the waggon-train that was one day ahead of us.
Medorem Crawford- Started at 8 oclock kept down the Walawala [Walla Walla] River and camped at 1 o'clock within 3 miles of the Fort [Walla Walla]. Traviled 12 miles. Visited the Fort saw Esqr Crocker, Doct. White had left before noon in the Companies Boat. All the foremost company had gone by land except Esqr. & Moss who started this evening to overtake them. I had an introduction to Mr. McKenlv who is in charge at the fort. The Fort is rebuilding now having lately been burnt. It is situated on a miserable sandy barren place where the sand drifts with the wind like snow. The Walla Walla River emties in & forms the Columbia here.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about nine miles, over the main ridge of the Blue Mountains. It is mostly a timbered country through which we passed; the scenery is delightful, resembling in grandeur that presented on yesterday's travel. We had a fine view of the Cascade Mountains to the west. Mount Hood, the loftiest of these, was plain to the view. It was some one hundred and fifty miles distant, and being covered with snow, appeared as a white cloud rising above those surrounding it. To the north of Mount Hood, and north of the Columbia, is seen Mount Saint Helen. We halted for the night at Lee's encampment.
Mary Black- During a halt at a ranch, I avail myself of an opportunity to write. It looks more like living than anything I have seen. Plenty of grain stacks. Pigs in a pen, near where we are stopped, and fatning hogs and hens singing around and plenty of little chicks, all black with white topping. We have had some steep hill to climb this morning. Emaline is complaining.
Lodisa Frizzell, 1852 - Saw several head of stock which had gave out, one old cow by the road with a paper pined on her head, it stated that she had been left to die, but if anyone chose, they might have her, but requested that they would not abuse her as she had been one of the best of cows, she looked so pittiful and it called up so many associations in my mind that it affected me to tears.
101st Day
Father Lempfrit- I have called this camp the "Make Believe Camp" because although we have changed our camp we traveled only half a mile! Division and dissent reigned in the camp of Israel! Once the danger is over the American cherishes his idea of liberty and submits unwillingly to every kind of constraint. Soon he rejects all obedience to authority. Our company divided up into four groups today and each group elected the captain of his choice.
Medorem Crawford- Started at 9 o'clock drove to the Fort [Walla Walla] found Mr. McKenly from home not to return until evening could not get the Doct's Things drove down the river and camped, traviled four miles. The rest of the company went on. The banks of the river on each side present tremendous pinacles of rock mostly perpendicular. We find considerable of sage yet in places.
Joel Palmer- We traveled about sixteen miles this day, which brought us to Umatillo river. Here is an Indian town, the residence of the principal chiefs of the Caaguas. At this time they were mostly in the mountains hunting. The road has been good; the first twelve miles led us through a well timbered country, the last four miles over prairie; the country has a dry appearance; the banks of the streams are lined with cottonwood, balm of gilead, choke cherries and every variety of bushes. The Indians have a few cultivated fields along this stream; they raise wheat, corn, potatoes, peas and a variety of vegetables. After the planting of crops, the labour of tending devolves upon the squaws, or is done by slaves, of which they have a number, being captives taken in their expeditions against other tribes. They brought us the different products of their farms for traffic. As they expressed great eagerness to obtain clothes, and we had a like desire to obtain vegetables, a brisk traffic was continued until dark. On yesterday morning when about ready to start, we discovered that eight or ten of our work cattle were missing. Four of our number, myself included, remained to hunt.
Mary Black- Sunday morning. We are going to make a short drive this fornoon & rest the balance of the day at a large spring, those say that are acquainted with the road.