61st Day-

 

Father Lempfrit- We left at 7:30 in the morning. Shortly afterwards we climbed up a hill steeper than any we have met with so far. The trail zigzagged for three-quarters of an hour and then we came to the crest of the mountain. The path was no more than eight feet wide, and on each side were frightful precipices.... Towards 1 o'clock we came to a place that Providence had taken pleasure in making beautiful. Oh! What a lovely bed of flowers. Nature was in her finest attire.... All too soon we had to leave this earthly Paradise for the steepest trail we have had up till now. For two whole miles, two almost black mountains seemed to want to embrace each other; they left, however, a space wide enough for a waggon to pass between them. It seemed as if we were about to descend into Hell! We had to lock the brakes on all four wheels. The waggons were almost perpendicular. When one was twenty-five feet below, it seemed as if the waggons above would all come hurtling down to crush one. This was not all! Having reached a spot about one hundred metres above the little valley, which, however, was nothing but a pile of broken rocks, the trail was all of a sudden blocked by an enormous boulder, pieces of which had been hacked away so that waggons could get past. . The descent was very dangerous. For a waggon had to slide only a couple of inches for it to disappear over the side of the precipice.... Two or three fissures in the rock were wide open, ready to swallow you up, and the waggon wheels, whilst going from one edge of the gap to the other, must have smashed to pieces if no precautions had been taken to absorb the shock of the sudden drop. This could be achieved, either by throwing down brushwood under the wheels, or else by unhitching the oxen so that the waggons could be guided over this spot by the men. The captain decided on the latter course of action, and the events that followed demonstrated that he had indeed acted with great prudence.

     After having unyoked the oxen the four wheels of the waggons were locked, but much more securely; so that the front wheels could slide, a strong cable was fastened securely to the back of the waggon. Ten men held it fast so that it could move forward only very slowly. Two other ropes were then attached to the right side of the waggon, and six men held it back, and prevented it from sliding too near the edge of the precipice. Two men then held the shaft of the waggon and guided it in its perilous descent. When the first wagon had been safely brought down we all felt like shouting "Hurrah," but then there were so many more to be guided down that our enthusiasm abated. We carried out the same procedure with each waggon and the result was excellent. However, this took a lot of time. It took us nearly three hours to get over this rough spot....

     As there was no wood to be found we could not remain here overnight. We therefore had to carry on for a few more miles. It was very late when we reached our camp site. We groped about in the dark, looking for a few sticks of dry wood so that we could heat up a little soup, and then we went to bed.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started early traviled 6 hours before dinner over a very rough mountainous country in some places we were obliged to all follow one path. Camped near sunset on the same creek good grass little wood, Traviled 22 miles.

 

62nd Day-Idaho

 

Father Lempfrit- Sunday. We celebrated the Holy Mass in our waggon as we have not made use of our tent for some time. During the course of the morning a poor woman I had been treating died. The captain decided that we would stay in this place so that the deceased could be buried. This poor, good woman came from an honorable family and the relatives begged me to come to the funeral, assur­ing me that this would greatly please them. I told them that I would attend most willingly. My companion [Father Lionnet], with his strange ideas, thought I was doing wrong. Him, they had not asked to come.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started in good season followed up the creek some time crossed a hill to the north commenced raining crossed some very bad water courses. Stopped for dinner at the side of a high mountain rain stopped started soon, rain and hail. Crossed two tremendous mountains and camped on Bear River near sunset traviled 25 miles. Saw a very large Indian trail nearly fresh. The river runs nearly north here.

 

Mary Ann Boatman- The moving city crept on at snail fashion for day after day. Noth­ing unusual occurring more than everyday a like up hill and down through sand and alkali dust and water, scarcity of grass for the stock and fuel for fire. We were now in a state of confusion as we all knew the Oatman family had been way laid in 1851 one year before, and part of the family taken in captivity. 9 in all. Two girls were taken in captivity 7 left for dead. Lorenzo, a boy of 14 revived after the heartless sav­ages had gone. Knowing of this, we were at a loss to know what to do. It was finely decided to move on, not wishing to shear the same fate, not knowing but the savage and murderous fiends . . . might return to the scene of slaughter and treat us in the same manner. After weeks of toil we had come to the Snake River.

 

James Monroe Fulkerson- This story was reported by his granddaughter, Lois Faye Fulkerson (1879-1963). “They had no trouble with Indians, except one tribe were thieves and once Grandfather, who was a good hunter and often went ahead of the train to kill fresh meat for the people, returned to find a band of Indians in camp taking anything they could pick up. At a fire where a man was watching bread baking, an Indian was just stooping over to raise the lid on the oven while the owner sat by with his head in his hands crying. Grandfather brought up a mighty kick on the Indians rear and sent him over the fire at full length. The Indian ran off howling with his hands on his burned stomach. That was the last seen of those Indians.”

     ”At another time a party came into camp to steal and Grandfather put my father (William Holt Fulkerson), who was about 6 years old, in the end of the wagon with a hatchet and said ‘Holt, if an Indian puts his hand on the tailgate to climb in, hit him with all your strength.’ So, father stood there with his hatchet raised ready, while the men cleared the camp of Indians, and PaPa didn't get a chance to use his hatchet.”

 

63rd Day

 

Medorem Crawford- Started as usual followed down the River level road very high mountain on each side of the River Bottom which is better soil than we have seen for some time. Stopped on the River a short time for dinner. Two accidents this afternoon by falling from horses not serious. A few trout caught from the river Today. Traviled 20 miles and camped on Tommaux Fork.

 

Editor’s Note- The Joel Palmer wagon train has now rejoined the other wagon trains after their sojourn on the Ft. Bridger trail in western Wyoming.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled down Bear River fifteen miles. The bottom is from two to four miles wide, and mostly covered with good grass. The road excellent. We encamped two miles above Smith's fork. The upper road from Green River comes in two miles back.

 

Mary Ann Boatman- We now find ourselves camped no great distance from an Indian camp of fishers whose business it was to pick up dead salmon along the banks of the river and trade them to the half starved emigrants for clothes or any thing they could get in exchange. The people, being ignorant of how they had obtained the fish, was only too glad to get a square meal of the red meat that looked from appearance that it would satisfy the most fastidious appetite. The swap, as the red skin called it, was soon made at every camp fire and Oh what a feast of fresh fish all had partaken of. But before morning the story was told on some of us. I for one. Oh how sick we were. I thought my time had come. The sickness come in the form of cholera morbus. That night it was thought best by all to keep a close watch over the stock. So all the men were on watch, but no disturbance occurred. The Indians were peaceable. [They were close to the American Falls]

 

Agnes Stewart- On Rock Creek tonight. Plenty of grass for the oxen. One of our oxen died day before yesterday, and one of John's today. He has lost two, Fred one, and David Love one. Five out of our company is not very many over such a road. We have had bad roads since we left Bear River. Traveling very slow for the roads are so rough they shake the cattle so bad.

 

64th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- Summoned to a small settlement of Canadian traders and Indians, probably Snakes, to baptize two children, a boy and a girl. We were also able to obtain a few items of refreshment we were badly in need of. For in this country, the least little thing is precious.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started early across the Fork and crossed over a tremendour mountain and stopped for dinner on the river, had level road this afternoon. Camped in good season on Tullock's Fork a Branch running from the Mountains into the River traviled 18 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled fifteen miles this day. Two miles brought us to Smith's fork. This is a bold, clear, and beautiful stream, coming in from the east. It is about fifteen yards wide, lined with timber and under­growth. In this stream is an abundance of mountain trout, some of them very large. The road leads down the bottom of Bear river three miles to Spring branch, one mile to the Narrows and three miles to the first crossing of Bear river." Here are two trails. The nearest turns to the right up a creek for a mile and a half, crosses the creek and passes over the hill, and strikes the other trail at the foot of Big Hill, six miles from the crossings. The other trail crosses the river, follows up its bottom round the bend for eight miles, to where it crosses the river, then follows down the bottom three miles, and takes up a valley for one mile to the foot of the Big Hill, where it intersects the other trail. This is the most level road, but the other is not a bad one. The hills bordering on Bear river on this day's travel are very high and rugged; they are covered with grass. The bottoms are from one to four miles wide. We saw this day large herds of antelope. We encamped in the bend of the river, near the second crossings.

 

Mary Ann Boatman- We are now in the Snake river valley traveling down the river, the miles we had to travel down before we come to the mountains I do not know. As we traveled down we soon found out the cause for our sickness from eating the salmon that we had got from the siwash [Indians]. At the edge of the water every now and then would be a dead ox or cow that had gone down the steep bank to quench its thurst and, being to weak to make the return up the steep bank, would fall in the river and drown. About those dead carcass's would be dozens of large fish dead. They had been eating on the putrid flesh of the dead cattle. So that ended the feast of fish.

 

65th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- The grasshoppers are black and very much bigger than the other kinds, and they measure about a finger's length. . . . This type of grasshopper serves as food for the Indians who heap them up into big holes that they have dug in the ground. After having made the hole really hot they remove all the glowing embers of wood, and then fill it up with grasshoppers, covering the hole with grass to make an oven. Afterwards they pulverize this "roast meat" with stones, making a kind of black flour which they blend with camas, a kind of onion that grows in profusion on their prairies. The camas is the best vegetable product the Indians eat. It is a kind of onion that tastes like lichen. When the camas is dry one would think that it was real lichen. The Indians dry large quantities of it.

 

Medorem Crawford- Saw fresh sines of Indians started early. Indians soon came to us. They were Ponarchs and moving in the same direction with us many of them traviled with us until 3 o'clock when we struck the river and camped, traviled 16 miles. Several horses were procured from them on reasonable terms by our company. Their whole company soon came up and camped near us.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about nineteen miles. Four or five miles brought us to the big hill or mountain. It is about half a mile to the top of the first ridge, and quite steep. The road then turns a few rods to the right, then to the left down a ravine for three hundred yards, and then up a ravine for half a mile to the top of the mountain. We traveled about two miles along the ridge, and then turned to the left down the mountain. It is about one mile to the plain, and generally very steep and stony; but all reached the plain safely, and were truly thankful that they had safely passed one of the most difficult mountains on the road. From the top of this mountain we had a most delightful view of the surrounding country. This is one of the ranges which border this stream At this place they close in upon both sides so as not to admit of a passage with teams along the river. A road could easily be cut around the point and save the fatigue of climbing this mountain; the distance would not be materially increased. The valley of Bear River bears off to the north-west and can be seen a great distance. From the south comes in a broad valley, up which can be seen Bear Lake. A high range of mountains separates it from the river. The outlet of this lake is two or three miles below the narrows made by this mountain." A high range of snow covered mountains can be seen to the south-west. The road strikes the river two miles from the foot of the mountain, at Big Timber. Here is a good camp. Eight miles brought us to a spring branch. The bottom here is wide; a low marsh pre­vents driving to the river. The grass is good. There is a little timber on the mountains. At Big Timber is a company of trappers and traders attached to Bridger's party.

 

Mary Black-  We are geared up ready to start. They say 30 miles to Soda Springs. About camping time, late too, we met some packers who told us it was 10 miles to wood and water, but we took a road turning towards the river & had to travail till 2 hours after night & I then had to get supper. There is flax growing in these bottoms but not much in a place, very scattering.

 

66th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- Several mounted men coming towards us. These were Americans who were on their way to Spanish territory to trade horses. Amongst these gentlemen was a Mr. Smith [Peg Leg] who greeted me in the warmest way even though he was not of the same faith. I can truly say that he is a friend to all the missionaries. He invited me to stop by his establishment and was kind enough to give me a note for his clerks, requesting them to give us some sugar and coffee free of charge, things we had run out of for some time.

 

Medorem Crawford- Some trading this morning started at 8 o'clock left the river before noon saw some of the finest springs of water which form a large creek. Saw the Soda Springs and Boiling Springs the greatest natural curiosity I ever saw. Camped near soda springs good place traviled 15 miles. Some Indians came to camp.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled about fourteen miles, cross­ing a number of spring branches, coming in from the mountains. These branches abound in trout. The ground, for a strip of about four miles, was covered with black crickets of a large size. I saw some that were about three inches in length and measuring about three-fourths of an inch in diameter; but the common size were two inches in length and one-half or five-eighths of an inch in diameter; their legs were large in pro­portion to the size of their bodies. Some were singing on stalks of wild sage; others crawling in every direction. Our teams made great havoc among them; so numerous were they that we crushed them at every step. As soon as one was killed, others of them would alight upon it and devour it. The bottoms are wide, and covered with grass, and the soil looks well. A few patches of snow were seen upon the mountain some ten miles distant. A portion of the mountain is covered with fine timber. The bottoms are rolling.

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Mary Black- Sunday morning. I feel quite well this morning with the exception of a soarness in my face caused by some decayed teeth I have. John got breakfast this morning as I cannot stand the cold mountain air before sun up, the nights are pinching cold. Nooning at Soda Springs. I have to brown coffee so I must get at it. I have browned and ground my coffee. The Indians were around begging & picking up the scraps. We have detained too long at this river as they say here we have a long drive before we get to water again. The next water we strike is of the Columbia.

 

Esther Hanna, 1852- There are some nine or ten of these springs in this place. The water is clear and sparkling, boiling and bubbling swelling at times almost to the surface; it is strongly impregnated with soda and by putting a little acid in it and adding sugar it will compare with any soda as it foams and boils up in the same way. It will also raise biscuit equal to saleratus. . .we mixed up a drink with tartaric acid and sugar which was excellent and foamed nicely.

 

67th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- It is a splendid little valley. The hills on either side gave us lovely views at each turn, for the hillsides were well wooded and we often saw pretty little mountain streams bursting through the greenery. Soon we came on a spring that was so vigourous that it almost immediately formed a lovely little river flowing to the west. There we found tarragon growing so prolifically that no other plants could be seen. Subsequently we found tarragon in many other places. This plant grows naturally here as does the polypetalous flax also.

 

Melorem Crawford- Went to see the Boiling Springs again this morning the hole through which the water spouts is about 1 foot in diameter the water which kept a continual Boiling rises frequently to the hight of 3 feet. It is said at times to rise much higher. It is Blood warm and has a sulphur and mineral taste there appears to be a species of Rock constantly forming around the hole which is already considerably elevated. There is a smaller hole near which appears to serve as a vent through which the air is constantly circulating. Started 7, a few Indians in camp 2 of our company started ahead for Fort Hall. Saw a singular spring partaking considerably of the quallities of soda.

 

[Editor’s Note: Fort Hall was 10 miles north of present-day Pocatello, Idaho]

 

Joel Palmer- Three hundred yards below the crossing of this branch, and immediately on the bank of the river, is the Steam­boat Spring. The water has formed a small cone of about two and a half feet in height, and three feet in diameter, at the base. A hole of six inches in diameter at the top, allows the water to discharge itself. It swells out at intervals of eight or ten seconds, and sometimes flows four or five feet in disjointed fragments. It is lukewarm, and has a milky appearance; but when taken in a vessel becomes as transparent as crystal.

 

Elizabeth Wood, 1851- “We passed Fort Hall; met a company of Indians moving; they had their ponys packed with their goods until one would suppose nothing else could be got on them; but on the top of their "plunder" the little papooses were tied, to keep them from falling off. Some of the ponys were rode by the squaws with a papoose lashed to their backs, and in some cases one or two at their sides, or if one, something else to keep up the equilibrium There were about 20 families of these Indians, seeking for winter quarters.”

 

Mary Black- Nooning on a nice stream in a valet' [probably the Portneuf River] in the mountains, so the statement about the waters of the Columbia was not so.

 

68th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- On top of a small hill, six to eight meters in height, a kind of cone-shaped rather large cap suddenly rises up.... The cap is surmounted by a smaller cone that is hollow and from which tepid, sulphureous, vile-smelling soapy water escapes in large bubbles.... I wanted to taste it, but so unpalatable did I find it that I found it impossible to swallow even the smallest drop. Several of our travelling com­panions were foolish enough to drink it but they paid dearly for this, nearly all of them went down with gastritis. That spring really is a marvel.... After exploring the soda spring I wanted to push on ahead. All at once I was hailed by a young American who came to beg me to come and treat a poor sick woman who was critically ill. The man was a member of the caravan that was ahead of us. They had halted four miles further on to wait for me for they knew there was a doctor in our company. On my way there I went through a lovely little forest where all the trees were red cedars.

 

Medorem Crawford- Stopped for dinner about 2 o'clock. Started soon camped on Portnough traviled 23 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- After we had halted for the night, three families who had separated from our company at the Soda Springs, passed us. A few hours had elapsed, and we espied one of their number returning post haste to our camp. When he arrived, he was so paralysed with fear, that it was with difficulty we obtained from him the cause of his alarm. It appeared evident, from his statement, that a party of Snake Indians meditated an attack upon their party. We dispatched a company to their relief, but soon had the gratification to witness the return of their wagons to our camp. It appears that one of their number had marched about two miles in advance of the wagons, when he was discovered by a party of Snake Indians, lurking in the vicinity, who immediately gave him chase, at every step uttering the most terrific yells, and endeavoured to surround him; but as he was astride a fleet American courser, he suc­ceeded in outstripping them, and arrived at the wagons in time to prepare for their approach. The wagons were then in a deep ravine, and could not be seen, by the Indians in pursuit, until within seventy-five yards. As soon as the Indians discovered their proximity to the wagons they commenced a precipitate retreat, and the emigrants rejoined our party.

 

Mary Black- We came to this place in good time last evening, a regular camping place, a stream with willow and grass. Lewis buried an infant here yesterday. Still born. They moved out this morning while we were at breakfast. There is several sick in our train. I saw the full moon rise from behind the mountain last evening.

 

69th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- I came on six tents which belong to Indians. They were busy smoking the skins of deer and antelope. The sweetness of the perfume of the smoking cedar wood was entrancing.... Standing apart from the six tents of the Indians was one more beautiful and spacious than the others. This belonged to a Canadian who, having heard that I was there, came out to ask me if I would bless his union with a young Metis. The girl was barely twelve years old. That evening I went to instruct them and prepare them so that I would be able to bless their union the following day.

 

Medorem Crawford- Horses strayed off some distance from camp started in good season stopped early for dinner drove on again until near sunset and camped on Ross Fork in deep valley on a beautiful little stream traviled 25 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled this day about fifteen miles. The road for seven miles is up the valley; it then takes over the mountain, to the waters running into Snake or Lewis river. The high range of mountains which bears off towards Salt Lake, terminates near the road on the left. The road follows a ravine, and winds about among the hills, and thickets of quaking aspen, until it reaches a spring branch, down which it follows, to near Fort Hall. Over the ridge, and for two miles down the branch, there is but little grass found. At the distance of three miles, on our left up the mountain, were several patches of snow. A few of our party brought some of the snow to our camp.

 

Agnes Stewart- Here I sit with my pencil in hand trying to write, but how can I? So, I take my book and pencil and think, and dream, and never open it till the time is past, and then I have to leave it and go and do something else. We are traveling very slowly.

 

Mary Black- Noon after dinner, being the first leisure I have had when the wagon was still. We have come over a rough road today, in one place just room for the road between high mountains. Some think we have come over the summit. This has been the dustys road we have had, this evening, not much grass neither.

 

70th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- The poor sick woman I had come to see was so weak that I could hold out little hope that she might recover. For nine days she had been tormented by her ill­ness. In the circumstances I informed her people that there was not much hope for her. The poor lady died. The country around here is extremely beautiful and I passed the time wandering around and exploring it. There are many traces of dried up mineral springs like the one I saw the other day. This proves the exis­tence of subterranean volcanoes. We are staying here for a couple of days and from now on our caravan is combined with the first waggon-train.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started in good season and traviled very fast in order to get to the Fort early as possible. Stopped for dinner on Ross Fork. Some Fort men came to camp started and crossed several spring Brooks camped on Snake or Lewis River near Fort Hall traviled 25 miles. Visited the Fort found it much smaller than Laramie but very well conducted. Commenced writing a letter.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we made about eighteen miles. For ten miles the road is very good. Along the stream is found willow brush, answering for fuel. The last seven miles is over a sandy plain; it was dry, and very heavy traveling. Our camp was at a large spring of cold water; grazing was very good.

 

Mary Black- Nooned without grass. Passed a station. The country is very barrain and dusty. We are encamped near a fine stream, with plenty of grass.

 

Maria Norton, 1859- We went this morning to see the skeleton of a papoose, which had been buried up in a tree and had fallen down. It was done up in a red handkerchief, with red and blue flannels, and last of all a buffalo robe. It was very much fried and shriveled up; should think that it had been dead quite a while.

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71st Day

 

Father Lempfrit- At 1 o'clock in the afternoon, we were traveling through a country that had been devoured by the flames of immense volcanoes that erupted, only God knows, in which epoch.... All this country seems to be as old as the world.”

 

Medorem Crawford- Started about 9 o'clock kept down the River. Crossed several marshy places, very warm day and much trouble with packs. Camped on the River, traviled 15 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled but five miles, which brought us to Fort Hall. This is a trading post in the posses­sion of the Hudson's Bay Company. Like the forts on the east side of the mountains, it is built of mud or adobes. (This term applies to sun-burnt brick.) They are of a similar construction. At each corner is a bastion, projecting out some eight or ten feet, perforated with holes for fire-arms. Captain Grant is now the officer in command ; he has the bearing of a gentleman." The garrison was supplied with flour, which had been procured from the settlements in Oregon, and brought here on pack horses. They sold it to the emigrants for twenty dollars per cwt., taking cattle in exchange; and as many of the emigrants were nearly out of flour, and had a few lame cattle, a brisk trade was carried on between them and the inhabitants of the fort. In the exchange of cattle for flour, an allowance was made of from five to twelve dollars per head.

 

Agnes Stewart- Sabbath. It is a beautiful day like the ones we used to have at home when we used to feel at peace when this time approached. I am very weary of this journey, weary of myself and all around me. I long for the quiet of home where I can be at peace once more. We have not traveled very fast of late, and it seems very slow. We often hear of people losing all their cattle, and we ought to feel grateful to the Lord for all his kindness to us. Passed a graveyard with ten graves in it. They lie side by side as peaceful as if the church bells of their native village tolled over them.

 

Mary Black- All of the men raised their wagon beds but us. We raised our load. We have to ford a stream and it is full. We travailed till after night. We passed good camping places but too early to camp.

 

Esther Hanna, 1852- Traveled 15 miles today over the most torturous road I ever could have imagined. Nothing but rock after rock . . . nothing but sage.

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72nd Day

 

Father Lempfrit- At 9 o'clock I caught sight of Fort Hall. From a distance it looked most attractive, but its charm evaporated as we drew close to it. Fort Hall looks quite impressive when viewed from the other side of the river. As soon as one draws near, however its charm disappears. It is a fort ... built of sun-baked bricks. They can be overcome, not by cannonballs but by baked apples!

 

Medorem Crawford- Started in good season saw the American Falls. It is not a perpendicular fall but more like rapids interspersed with large rocks. Met a large number of Indians. Doct went back and traded fish and horse from them stopped for dinner in a very bad place. Doct came up started camped on river traviled 12 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about eight miles; five miles brought us to the crossing of Portneth. This is a stream heading in the mountains near the Soda Springs, receiving numerous branches in this bottom, and is here about eighty yards in width." From this place, it is one mile to the crossing of a narrow slough, with steep banks We crossed, and journeyed two miles to the bank of Snake river, where we encamped. Eight wagons joined us at our encampment.

 

Mary Black- We are laying up to-day inconsequence of our tiresome travail yesterday. I sided up my wagon, swaped a large tin of peaches for as many beans and cooked half of them for dinner and washed some in the evening.

 

Helen Carpenter, 1856- Only the women from Missouri had to milk. Yankee husbands did the milking.  In respect to the women's work, the days are all very much the same except when we stop for a day. Then there is washing to be done and light bread to make and all kinds of odd jobs. Some women have very little help about the camp being obliged to get the wood and water, make camp fires, unpack at night and pack up in the morning, and if they are Missourians they have the milking to do if they are fortunate enough to have cows. I am lucky in having a Yankee for a husband so am well waited on.

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73rd Day

 

Father Lempfrit- A large number of Indians known as the Snake Indians came to pay us a visit. They appeared to be well-disposed, friendly, even courteous. They came and shook hands with everyone. Let anyone tell me that Indians are malicious! Well, not the Snakes. Their open behaviour holds out plenty of promise.

 

Meldorem Crawford- Sunday. Concluded to wait for the Company as some are not satisfied to go without a pilot. Company passed about I o'clock. We packed up and started found them. Camped about three miles on the river. Mr. McDonald came up soon.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about eight miles; which brought us to within one mile of the American Falls. Our camp was at the springs. An island in the river afforded excellent grazing for cattle. The country is extremely barren, being sandy sage plains.

 

Agnes Stewart- Well, well. People talk of being up to their eyes in dust, but if we have not been up to our eyes in dust it is strange to me. This last two or three weeks we have had plenty of dust and sand. Camped on Barrel Creek last night. We thought it a nice place because we were out of the sand, notwithstanding we could hardly walk for the cow dung, and could hardly breathe for the smell of dead cattle

 

Mary Black- Mrs. Turpin complained terably last night. I sat up from 10 till about 1 oclock but she got no ease. We are detaining again on her account. There is several sick in the train. We are using spring water. John killed 4 chick. I cooked them for dinner. Gave 2 to the sick. It is about 1/2 mile to the river, which is suposed to be the head waters of the Columbia.

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74th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- We did not go far today. We went scarcely twelve miles so that we could set up our camp at the place where the trail divided, with one branch going to California to search for gold. What is absolutely certain is that several people who had been there came back rolling in wealth. Gold can be found everywhere within a sixty mile area; pure gold nuggets, not powdered gold.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started without breakfast and traviled very fast until 8 o'clock stopped on a creek three hours. Started and drove on a trot nearly all day, very rocky hard for horses feet. The same Barren Country covered with sage continues. Camped on a Little Brook at 5 o'clock traviled 30 m good water and grass, little wood suffered very much with dust.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled about fifteen miles, which brought us to Levy creek, or Beaver-dam creek, as it is sometimes termed; it is a small stream; its waters flow down a succession of falls, producing a handsome cascade: it has the appearance of having been built up by beaver. The property of the water has turned the material into stone; the water appears to be impreg­nated with soda; the rocks along the bank are of that formation. The best camp is two miles farther on.

 

Mary Black- We passed the falls that have been in hearing of our camp for 2 days, soon this morning, some thought is fall near 40 feet. All the streams have falls. We nooned near another cascade in the river, but quite small, I could not see the principle one till after we passed by. The falling water looked like snow, it was so white. We travailed till night before we came to the river bottom. There is the only place where there is any grass. It was very near eaten out here. The road has lain over steep mountains mostly all evening.

 

Celinda Hines, 1853- In the morning a great many Indians came to camp with fish which they wished to exchange for clothing. We bought a number The Indians the Diggers cannot understand the English language...These Indians are dressed in any old clothing they can get from the emigrants. Some of them have on one garment. ..others are fully clad. They seem most anxious to get shirts and socks.

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75th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- On the banks of a little river where there were large numbers of freshwater cray­fish. I went into the river to wash my feet, and two minutes later I noticed more than a score of them hanging to my legs. I harvested over a hundred of them in this manner within a period of half an hour.

 

Meldorem Crawford- Started early drove fast. Came close to the river camped at 10 on Goose Creek. H. B. Company arrived 2 hours before us our cattle very much fatigued concluded not to try to keep up with the H. B. Company with our cattle. Company started two hours before us we drove moderately camped early traviled 20 miles. Doct. White left us for the H. B. Company whom he intends to go with to Fort Vancouver. Only 8 men left in our Company without a Pilot.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about eight miles, to Cassia creek; here the California trail turns off. The road has been very dusty and heavy traveling. The country presents the same usual barren appearance.

 

Mary Ann Boatman- Our train slowly drag[g]ed on, day after day nothing out of every days occurrence. All looking anxious for the end of the journey. We camped one night on Salmon Falls on the Snake River. There were a great many emigrants in camp at that place making preparation to cross over the river to travel on the north side, expecting to find grass more plentiful for the teams. They had contrived for convey­ance to cross the river in, . . . to cork a wagon box so it would be water proof. Then . . . a rope across the river. . . . Another rope attached to each end of the wagon box boat, to . . . slide over the one that crossed the river. All went well for a little time. They had landed a few loads on the opsit side. As they were returning for another load, we heard a scream. On looking what a horible sight met our gaze. The rop e had broken and 3 men and a boy with the boat had gone over the falls. The boy was drown or killed, the men, clinging to the rocks, calling for help. In some way they got to shore badly bruised and exhausted almost unto death. They, in some way, managed to recover the boys body. As it was not late that afternoon, our company concluded to hitch up and pull out as we had seen so much sorrow and sufren on the way that we preferd to get away from as much as convenient. Drove a few miles and camped for the night.

 

Mary Black- We are nooning on a small branch with plenty of grass near what seems to have been a station, but tenant-less, as have been 2 others we passed yesterday. Tilla is complain­ing. We travailed till late and then had very indifferent grass & no water. Went to bed without supper.

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76th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- Today, we did not travel very far as the Snake River is full of fish, and our Americans had been looking forward to going fishing. We halted after going only seven miles so that every one could fish.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started in good season and traviled moderately, fine cool day camped about noon. Giger and others passed with many animals. Started at 2J o'clock. Camped on a very pretty brook traviled 18 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about fifteen miles and reached marshy springs; the road has been stony and dusty; the country mostly destitute of vegetation —nothing growing but the wild sage and wormwood.

 

Mary Ann Boatman- We never heard from that party dont know how they made crossing if they made it or not. We went about 20 miles down the river and found another ferry boat made of [a] wagon box where some men had taken charge . . . and ferried emigrants over and charged them exorbit prices. As for our company, they did not have money to waste. So we were willing to let good enough alone and traveled all the way down the Snake River on the south side.

 

Agnes Stewart- One of our oxen died last night, and I was very sorry for he was a favorite, but it seems they all must go.

 

Mary Black- Started by day light with out break­fast. Travailed till after 10 before we came to water. I was rite sick during the night with diareah. It looked I would give quite out before I could get something to eat. The sun shone so hot. Our road has been very steep and rocky, and very dusty. Almost in­sufferable. We nooned about 3 hours in order to give the cattle time to graze. [Editor's Note: The wagon train is on the south edge of the Snake River Plain--desert--but in the foot hills of moun­tains along south side of Snake River at about 4,000 ft. elevation.]

 

Jane Gould, 1862- The dust is even worse than Indians, storms, or winds, or mosquitoes, or even wood ticks. Dust...if I could just have a bath.

 

Editor's Quote-

Long having wandered since, round the earth having wandered,

Now I face home again, very pleased and joyous,

(But where is what I started for so long ago?

And why is it yet unfound?)

Walt Whitman

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77th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- We left quite early in the morning. The further we went the more dif­ficulty we had in finding water. The river here was walled in between two great cliffs over thirty metres in height. The precipices were frightful to look at. All the rocks were black, and it seemed as if it was the River Styx that flowed at the bottom of the gorge. We came near to the edge, and our poor animals, dying of thirst, looked at the foaming water with very sad eyes. We ourselves were suffer­ing from thirst, but no one could bring themselves to attempt going down to the river. It would mean risking one's life. We journeyed on for twelve miles before we found a drop of water. We arrived at our camp site at 7:30 in the evening.

 

Medorem Crawford- Started at 7-1/2 crossed two deep ravines, very rocky, passed an old camping ground at 10-1/2 o'clock concluded not to stop drove on at a good pace decended into a tremendous valley with banks of perpendicular rock at least 200 feet high on the north side a large portion of water issues out of the rock nearly half way up. Camped at 3 o'clock on a large stream formed mostly by springs of the above description, traviled 21 miles.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled but eleven miles. The road runs over a sage plain for eight miles, when it crosses the stream from the marsh; no water running, and but little standing in pools. At the distance of three miles the road strikes the river bottom, at the lower end of this, at which place the road leaves it; here was found a good camp.

 

Mary Black- I have had the diahrea for two days. This morning is the first time I have felt able to write since I wrote the last. I feel clear of misery, but am very weak. We are encamped near the river. The hills here are composed of large round dark colored rock. That is the hills we have to travail over about like a rocky creek ford. Nooning on a branch with plenty of rye & Willows to cook with. We have come over a very rough road this fore noon.

 

Lodisa Frizzell, 1852- Here the earth has felt a shock at no very distant period. . .what has caused the earth to be to its center shook? Sin! the very rocks seemed to reverberate, Sin has caused them to be upheaved that they may be eternal monuments of the curse and fall of man; viewing these symbols of devine wrath, I felt humbled; I took a small stone and wrote upon a flat rock beside me, 'Remember me in mercy Lord.' I shall never forget this wild scene and my thoughts and reflections here.

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78th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- Scarcity of water caused several cases of friction. The caravan hardly made any headway. All the same, we departed, but only to come to the most abominable place that exists, I believe, in the whole world. Picture to yourself an immense plateau, baren except for the ever present absinth [sagebrush]. Noth­ing is before ones eyes except for a vast expanse of rock. There are no birds. It seems that if birds would have flown over the precipice they would suffocate in the sulphureous fumes escaping from a dried-up marsh. The way to the marsh is extremely steep and tortuous. We left our wagons on the plateau and then drove our poor animals down, as best we could, so that they could go and drink from this briny water. After we had something to eat I wanted to go down to this horrible place to take a closer look at it. I can assure you, dear readers, that in all my life I have never seen anything that struck such terror in my heart. I imagined I was at the bottom of Hell. A black river flowed at my feet. In several places there were quicksands that seemed ready to threaten the imprudent traveler who would dare to tread upon them. I was frozen with terror, and just as I was about to retreat, an idea came to me. I would push further on. There was a blind alley to my left where it seemed the world would come to an end, for I saw the river being swallowed up under masses of volcanic rock. The valley became narrower all the time, soon there was only space enough for the river. I pressed myself against the calcinated rocks, and as a result of my efforts and the precautions I took I succeeded in getting past the dangerous spots. Beyond, however, new horrors were lying in wait for me. There, four large volcanoes rose up from beneath the rocks. They looked like the openings to four huge furnaces. It appeared that the eruptions here had been extremely violent and that the intense heat had melted both the rocks and the earth. Nearly all the rocks had been reduced to the state of glass like substance, and the earth had been baked like a brick. It seemed that an eruption had probably taken place when everything was white-hot, and that after the lava had ceased to flow, and the craters had cooled off, these four gap­ing mouths were left to say to posterity, "Just look at what we have done!" This gloomy vally extended a great deal further and I had already gone about two miles in this sinister place. I was heavy of heart, for what numbed me with terror was the deathly silence that reigned everywhere. I did not see even a gnat or a midge, everything was dead in this dark valley. [Possibly near present-day Twin Falls, Idaho.)

 

Medorem Crawford- Started at 7, kept down the Creek which is very rapid left the Creek and decended a steep hill. Crossed a beautiful stream. Camped at 11. Started at 2 passed some Indian Lodges traded fish both fresh and dry left the river rose a tremendous hill travellid on till dark no appearance of water very dark until 9 when the moon arose decended a tremendous hill found the river we left and camped at 10 o'clock night in a miserable sandy and rocky place traviled 30 M.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled about twenty-three miles. Four miles brought us to Goose creek. We found difficulty in crossing, and no good location for a camp. After seven miles travel we reached the river; but little grass. Twelve miles brought us to Dry Branch; here also was unsuitable ground for encamping, as the water was standing in pools. The road we traveled was very dusty, and portions of it quite stony; here the river runs through a rocky kanyon. The cliffs are sometimes of the height of one thousand feet, and nearly perpendicular. Above the kanyon, the river is two or three hundred yards wide; but at this place it is not more than one hundred and fifty feet; and at one place, where there is a fall of some twenty feet, its width does not exceed seventy-five feet. In our march this day I attempted to get down to the river, to procure a drink of water, but for six miles was unable to do so, owing to the steep precipitous banks.

 

Mary Black- We encamp within a few miles of a ranch on a place that has lately been mown. It rained last night and the sun is shining as bright as I have always been used to seeing it do after a storm, and I hear some tiny notes of birds among the willows on the branch. It lightnined and thundered about like it does in Missouri. We halted on the same branch and as it is 25 mile to grass. We will stay here till morning.

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79th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- Today is Sunday. After celebrating the Holy Mass we had our break­fast and then we left. Our cattle had not had any grass so we had to stop about midday to let them graze. As we arrived in this place we heard the sound of an extraordinary waterfall. Far in the distance I saw a large white streak. We thought that it was snow. I then took a look at this white streak with the aid of my spy-glass. Upon closer examination I saw it was a most beautiful waterfall. It looked as if this was a river or a most powerful spring that gushed from the summit of a rock and then hurled itself down from a height of more than a hundred feet. The column of water split up on some sharp pointed rocks, and then divided up into a thou­sand very slender sprays. This created a marvelous effect as the water, reflecting the rays of the sun, became a lovely rainbow of a myriad hues. And then I saw a second marvel about one hundred metres further away. This was a round shaped rock leaning back against the mountain. One could have taken it for a tower from the Middle Ages. At its two sides it had two turrets, and then there was a small hill sloping gently downwards. One could see a series of [rock] piles, all pentagonal in shape. These were heaped up one above the other to a height of more than ten metres, twenty metres in certain places. They looked just like a bee's honeycomb. The [rock] piles were all the same size, about two metres in width by a half metre in thickness. I counted eighty-two rows of them which had arranged themselves in the form of a semi-circle in such a way that the river had lapped at their base created a small cove. That same day, in the evening, we came to an even more picturesque sight. This, no longer was a waterfall but a castle, or rather a vast liquid keyboard. Can you believe this! This was a great mass of rocks about two hun­dred metres wide by twenty metres high. This rock-mass was perforated at its highest point; across the entire stretch of rock clear, limpid water gushed out from the countless openings, forming a small shallow pool which tumbled rhythmically to the river. In my opinion it must have been a river that had carved itself a channel all along the rock since all the other springs that we have seen were of the same height. [Probably Banbury Springs or Thousand Springs]

 

Medorem Crawford- Started at 8 kept down the river on the side of a steep bank where we were obliged to all follow one narrow path cross some steep ravines camped at 12 on an island in Snake river good grass concluded to stay here today and let our animals recruit, traviled 10 M. Started early kept down the river along a steep side-hill saw many Indians who live along the river and subsist principally on fish traded fresh fish from them.

 

Joel Palmer- We traveled but eight miles. The road lay over a sage plain to the bottom on Rock Creek. Here we found a very good camp.

 

Mary Black- Started early. Came to a ranch about 10 and stoped long enough to water the teams. They say 17 miles to grass. We came to the ferry about noon. Got our dinner and was soon crossing the Snake River in a row boat. We had to come down a very steep side mountain road. The wagon I was in came very near running off. I had to get out and walk about a quarter down hill. We had good grass for the stock.

 

Esther Hanna, 1852- My mare appeared to fail every step and finally she lay down on the roadside. I cannot describe my feeling at this time. This noble animal that had been of so much service to us and worth so much to us if we got her through had now as we thought, laid down to die... I bursted into a flood of tears. . This mare recovered from exhaustion and was cheered when the hired man brought her into camp several days later.

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80th Day

 

Father Lempfrit- Today several Indians came to visit us, bringing with them an enormous quantity of salmon. I bought one weighing nearly thirty pounds for six fishhooks. We traveled quite near to their cabins. These were made from reeds as are most of the cabins of the Indians who live along the rivers. I went to visit their little village as I wanted to do some trading with them I must admit that these poor Indians are not models of cleanliness—everything one sees in their miser­able huts makes the gorge rise. Salmon is their staple food and one sees this spread out to dry in every part of their cabins. The salmon are first of all stretched out so that the eggs can be removed. These are then dried, either in the sun or in the open air. After they have been dried the eggs are interlaced and then packed into bags made from fresh salmon skin where they are stored. Sometimes they are firmed up in the shape of loaves so that they can be eaten during the course of the year. I tasted some of this confection but could not bring myself to swallow even the little that I had in my mouth so revolting was its stench. After the eggs have been removed the salmon is cut up into long slices so that it will dry better. Even the bones that still have some meat on them are preserved. The baskets they use for drawing water are very cleverly woven. They are made from a pliant root and the insides of the baskets are then smeared with salmon fat to make them watertight. The Indians catch their salmon in these parts of the river where the water flows more swiftly. They build a kind of dam over which the salmon must leap in order to make its way up river. The Indians keep watch for them, and at the precise moment that the salmon readies itself to spring forward they spear it with a dart that had been securely fixed to the end of a pole. The point of the dart at its extremity is shaped like an inverted "V," and the moment the point embeds itself in the body of the fish it breaks away from the top of the pole, still however remaining attached by a little line. It looks as if the fish is still free to move at will when it is viewed from a point a few feet lower down the river. This however is not the case. The salmon is assuredly captured, it is just a question of pulling in the line.

 

Medorem Crawford- Camped 11-1/2 for dinner several Indians in camp. Left the river for a short time after dinner saw large sandbanks drifted like snow. Camped on a slew of the river very high grass, tray. 18 M. horses got frightened and ran some distance from camp, probably wolves.

 

Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about twenty miles. After the distance of eight miles we arrived at the crossing of Rock Creek, (in a kanyon,) here we halted for dinner, and gave our cattle water. We then took up the bluff and traveled over sand and sage plains for about twelve miles. When night overtook us we drove to the top of the river bluff and encamped. We drove our cattle one and a half miles down the bluff to the river for water. Here we found a little grass and green brush, but it was not sufficient in quantity to supply our cattle, and we could do no better. We packed water up the bluff to our camp. The bluffs at this place exceed one thousand feet in height; they are of basalt. The road is on a high barren plain; a range of mountains is on our left hard by, and at a great distance on our right another range appears.

 

Mary Black- The right wing came over last evening. The wind was against the progress of the boat. This morning is still and [we] are making rapid progress. The wagons & horses are over & they are swimming the cattle. There is a river coming out of the right bank, forming several falls before it reaches the bottom. It makes quite a noise. The bluffs are almost perpen­dicular, there hight is beyond my estimation. 10 Oclock A.M. The order is to get dinner and start. A few cattle are on the other side. The men could not make the cattle swim the river. They are going to bring them on the boat. The cattle crowded up on the boat and sunk it and came near drownding some of the men. They had their boots and clothing on. The cattle all went to the other band. The men were till night getting them over.

 

Sarah Herndon- We have had a preaching service this afternoon The services were well attended, and the sermon was fine He compared our situation with that of the Children of Israel in the wilderness. He spoke of God's care for them and that He careth for us, spoke in an earnest manner of our dependence upon God, and our inability to take care of ourselves, or to accomplish anything without God's help and cooperation, and of the necessity of earnest prayer and faith in all circumstances of life. ..When the people were gathered at the call of the bugle, some sat on chairs in the shade of wagons, some under umbrellas some in carriages and light wagons.

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