FULKERSON FAMILY HISTORY
41st Day-
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about fifteen miles. Six miles brought us to a small branch, where is a good camp. Near this branch there is abundance of marble, variegated with blue and red, but it is full of seams. The hills in this vicinity are of the red shale formation. In the mountain near by is stone coal. The hills were generally covered with grass. The streams are lined with cotton wood, willow and boxalder. The road was very dusty.
Mary Ann Boatman- We now leave the Platte River to go across the Sand Hill Plains. It is well named, for it was one plain of sand. No grass to speak of and no fuel but buffalo chips or some dry sage brush. As far as one could see on all sides were sand hills dotted here and there with sage brush. Occasionally a sage hen would fly through the air. The poor lonely bird would usually come to the earth at the report of some man's gun to be stripped of its pretty coat of spotted feathers and make an appetizing supper for some hungry family. Ofttimes we had to travel until late at night to reach a watering place. . . . all were on the look out for fuel. Usually each family had gathered a little of some kind of fuel to make a fire to boil a kettle of water and fry a few slices of bacon. The bread was usually baked of a morning to last all day. So in this way we trudged on over sand hills for several days. Then crossed a shallow stream called in the guide book Little Sanday [probably today's Horse Creek], thence on through Alki Plain [probably the Alkali Slough area]. The ground was white as if it were covered with snow. Some of the people gathered it up an put it in bottles to use in place of soda. The next thing of interest was the Independent Rock, a large round rock with hundreds of names cut in its side.
Agnes Stewart- Oh dear, we have to stay here two or three days and it will appear like two or three weeks. I want to go on and never stop at all if it could be helped, but the oxen's feet are all tender, and some of them are very lame. We must stop and let them get well again. I have been sick all day.
Frederick Fulkerson- A granddaughter of James Fulkerson and Mary Miller wrote many years after the 1847 wagon train: “When crossing the Platte River, Frederick [Fulkerson] swam the river below the crossing to ford the stock over, as the river was so swift it tended to wash them downstream. He became so chilled and exhausted that he died and was buried about nine days later near Devils Gate [on the Sweetwater River].” The fording of the Platte was likely to have happened somewhere near old Fort Casper.
42nd Day-
Joel Palmer- We traveled about fifteen miles today, the road generally good, with a few difficult places. Two wagons upset, but little damage was done. We crossed several beautiful streams flowing from the Black hills; they are lined with timber. Today, as on yesterday, we found abundance of red, yellow and black currants, with some gooseberries, along the streams.
Mary Ann Boatman- The next thing of interest was crossing the Sweetwater. Why it is named Sweetwater I can not tell, unless the water is so clear and sweet, to be compared with water that people had been compelled to use. It is a wide shallow stream at the ford. About a quarter of a mile up the river we camped for the night. At that place the river run though a narrow tunnel like passage between high rocky bluffs on each side forming a canyon . . . . It was an ideal camping ground at the foot of the Sweetwater Mountains.
Agnes Stewart- This brings to mind hurry and bustle, preparations for pleasure excursions throughout the union. Scarcely any person but what is going to have, or expects to have, a little more than usual today, while we are going on our weary journey. Crossed the North Platte yesterday, and went three miles on the most sandy road I ever saw. The sand was so heavy that it was hard to haul the wagons downhill. We paid five dollars for each wagon, and four yoke of oxen, and 12 & 1/2 cents per head for the rest of the cattle, and the same for each man except one driver for each team. The ladies went across free for their dear little feet would not wear out the bridge. There was a great many Spaniards there, and all of them had squaw wives. One was sitting in the door of a tent making a little bonnet for her baby. She looked so comfortable at the work that seemed to please her most, little dreaming that he who pretended to protect her would leave her whenever he saw fit. We had bad roads today, to say bad, camping in sight of the terrible Black Hills. I am sitting on a little hill alone above the camp. They are playing the fiddle and dancing, and I can shut my eyes and think I am at some kind of gathering of some description just like I used to be. It recalls old times to me.
43rd Day-
Medorem Crawford- Started at 7 o'clock stopped at 9. Second trial of Mr. Moss for not standing guard. Jury could not agree. Started at 2 camped at 7, traviled 15 miles. Saw several bands of fine Buffalo cows our hunter killed one I think decidedly the best meat I ever eat.
Joel Palmer- We this day traveled about twelve miles. Three miles brought us to Deer creek. Here is an excellent camp ground. Some very good bottom land. The banks are lined with timber. Stone coal was found near the road. This would be a suitable place for a fort, as the soil and timber is better than is generally found along the upper Platte. Game in abundance, such as elk, buffalo, deer, antelope and bear. The timber is chiefly cotton wood, but there is pine on the mountains within ten or twelve miles. The road was generally along the river bottom, and much of the way extremely barren. We encamped on the bank of the river.
Agnes Stewart- Such a warm day. Everyone is worn out and tired with the heat. We finished the Fourth of July by dancing. After Helen and I sitting on the hill and moralizing so serious we came down and cut capers like a parcel of fools. But this is the way of the world, change all the time in spite of reason. We passed The Devil's Den, I heard some of them saying. I fell asleep and dreamed I saw some of the little black imps looking over every one of the big black rocks. It is evening and what a gorgeous, beautiful sunset. I never saw a more beautiful one at home.
44th Day-
Joel Palmer- In traveling through the sand and hot sun, our wagon tires had become loose; and we had wedged until the tire would no longer remain on the wheels. One or two axletrees and tongues had been broken, and we found it necessary to encamp and repair them. For this purpose all hands were busily employed. We had neither bellows nor anvil, and of course could not cut and weld tire. But as a substitute, we took off the tire, shaved thin hoops and tacked them on the felloes, heated our tire and replaced it. This we found to answer a good purpose.
Mary Ann Boatman- As the sun . . . shed . . . her last golden ray over the mountain top, the quiet breeze bore away on its zephyr wings the odor of the frugal meal served throughout the various divisions of the camp. The evening was spent in rest, all having been refreshed by natures bath. Nothing to disturb the quiet of the night but the lowing of some lonely ox and tinkling of bells on the distant hill side keeping time with the noisy cataract that was making its way through the narrow canyon far below. Never did the kings of old rise from their beds of down, covered with the snow white silken sheets to array ... themselves in royal robes, appreciate the rising sun that shed its golden rays on kingly mansions more than did these humble emigrants, who had a quiet nights rest on their hard and dusty beds.
Agnes Stewart- On top of Independence Rock. How often I have read and thought about it, and now I am on top of it. The wind blows very hard. That is the reason it is so unpleasant for those wearing skirts. It is quite easy to ascend, but I think it will be more difficult to descend.
45th Day-
Father Lempfrit- We continued to travel alongside the River Platte. We had very strong winds. We are waiting until tomorrow to cross the River Platte for the second and last time.
Medorem Crawford- Sunday. Crossed over the Platte & camped traviled miles. 11. Started at 8, left the Platte & Black Hills traviled miles over hilly roads & camped in sight of the Red Buttes good water and grass but no wood. Cool wind.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about ten miles. In crossing a small ravine, an axletree of one of the wagons was broken. The road is mostly on the river bottom. Much of the country is barren.
Mary Ann Boatman- Woke early in the morning refreshed and rested, with the happy thought that we had once more reached a land where pure water could be obtained and fairly good grazing for the stock. It was a beautiful morning in July. Bright and early all was astir. Camp fires sending clouds of smoke and sparks heavenward. The sun pushing up her golden rays as if no cloud could ever obscure the light of the earth again. All were busy, getting ready to move on at an early hour. All were on the march with a good supply of good pure water for our days journey as every canteen and every vessel available was brought in use.
46th Day-
Father Lempfrit- We are waiting until tomorrow to cross over the River Platte for the second time.
Medorem Crawford- Started in good season saw an abundance of Buffalo crossed some very Rocky Hills said to be the commencement of the Mountains. Stopped for dinner 2 hours. Camped in a little valley surrounded with bushes grass good & first rate water and wood, traviled 16 miles.
Joel Palmer- Six miles travel brought us to the crossing of the north fork of the Platte. At 4 o'clock, P. M. all were safely over, and we proceeded up half a mile to a grove of timber and encamped." Near the crossing was encamped Colonel Kearney's regiment of dragoons, on their return from the South Pass. Many of them were sick.
Mary Ann Boatman- We . . . began to ascend the Sweetwater Mountains as they were called in our guide book. The hill proved to be a steep and long one, teams going on and we women walking. In some places looked as if the wagons and oxen would fall backwards. About 2 o'clock p. m. we reached the summit. [This was not the South Pass summit. It may well have been the approach to Rocky Ridge some twenty-five miles east of the pass.]
47th Day-
Father Lempfrit- The River Platte is very deep at this point, and its bed is extremely confined. This is why it can only be crossed on rafts. We made the crossing without any accidents.
Medorem Crawford- Very cold, water in a pail froze ice like thick window glass. Started early raized a long hill detained by wagons breaking down I hour.
Joel Palmer- We traveled about ten miles this day, and encamped at the Mineral Spring. The road leaves the Platte at the crossing and passes over the Red Buttes. The plains in this region are literally covered with buffalo.
Mary Ann Boatman- On finding no water for the stock all but the Boatman boys moved on saying they would not stop until they could find water for the cattle. The Boatmans unhitched saying they believed that within a mile north of the road they would find the river. So they unhitched and started off in pursuit of water. All of the other teams moved on, so that left me alone. I with fear and trembling, sat for hours by the road side expecting to be carried away by some monster, in what form it would be I could not imagine, as there was nothing to be seen or heard. The longer I waited the greater my fear increased. Another hour passed and nobody came. By this time I concluded to arm myself. Not knowing how to handle the rifle, the axe was brought into use. So I sat with axe in hand for another hour. At last I heard a sound and thought my time on earth had ended. With my axe in hand, I picked up courage enough to crawl out of the wagon and look to see what was coming. Dear reader what do you suppose it was, a boy with a horse loaded with water cans. He was going on in search of a camping place. He said the train was 2 or 3 miles back. As my fears had increased and I felt as if I would be murdered or carried away by something I know not what, I resolved to hide. So I went quite away from the road and laid down waiting for my fait whatever it should be. After lying concealed for a while I heard someone call. Of course I thought it was Indians coming to rob and kill me. So after a few minutes I . . . looked up. The men had come and on finding me gone, had feared that the Indians had come and frighten me away as they had seen some on their way to the river. All my fears were for nothing. As to the journey to the river with cattle, it was a long an hard one. Insted of one mile, it proved to be 3 and rough steep hills to climb so that made us late to the camping ground. It was long after dark when we got to camp. Our comrades greeted us with joy. As the evening wore away to bed time, I amused the women folks by telling them of my fears that I would . . . be taken captive to spend a life in captivity, if there had been any savage to take me. But as it was, there was nothing except my imagination to be frighten at. Our camping place proved to be quit a good one plenty of wood and grass not far away. Next morning all was astir bright and early. The air being cool we ... donned our raps and started in advance of the team. On reaching the summit ... we found snow, so we indulged in a little girls play snowballing for a while.
48th Day-
Medorem Crawford- Stopped for late dinner on very warm road level and sandy not a particle of grass, passed beds of white substance partaking of the nature of salt and magnetia &c. Camped at sunset on Sweet Water, traviled 20 m. Baily shot while walking through camp by accidental discharge of a gun from a waggon, he lived about one hour.
Joel Palmer- Today we traveled about ten miles. The range is very poor, and it has become necessary to divide into small parties, in order to procure forage for our cattle. Out of the company five divisions were formed. In my division we had eleven wagons; and we travel more expeditiously, with but little difficulty in finding grass for our cattle.
Mary Ann Boatman- At noon when we called a halt to rest and eat dinner, there was no grass or water for the cattle. After a short rest we moved on. Now came the task of a down hill descent. .. . Some parts of the way were very difficult to make. But as the teamsters were all that could be expected in skillfulness of men and driving ox teams there were no mishaps on the descent. We have now made the journey over the mountain in safety and find a good campground [Pacific Springs]. The plain is comparatively level with a small stream of water fed from a small spring from the mountain. From the appearance, in the winter this place would be one boggy marsh. But, as we were late in getting over as it was in July, the ground had dried up and was covered with coarse grass. It was an ideal camping ground and all were in favor of resting a day, as plenty of fuel could be obtained without much difficulty. Along the little water course, grew, wild currant bushes with their fruit red and yellow, but not very palatable. We women gathered some, thinking to surprise the men when they come in from hunting on the mountainside and looking after the stock, with sitting before them a nice currant pie, and of a sure they were surprised and ourselves too. Of all the baking and stirring, the fruit was as hard as it was when first picked off of the bush. We should have known they were not eatable because there would not have been any left as hundreds of emigrants had passed on before us saying nothing about the Indians that rove the country.
Agnes Stewart- Such a long time since I wrote last that I have almost forgotten how. Since I wrote we have passed the Devil's Gate, crossed the Sweetwater five times, and now ascending the Rocky Mountains, and in two days we will get our first sight of Oregon [Territory]. Stopped yesterday and rested. It was the Sabbath. Mary lost one of her oxen, one of the best. It could ill be spared. I hope it will be the last. [From this time on it will be noticed that Agnes is beginning to weary with the long journey, and that the entries are shorter and less hopeful than they were at the beginning. That the whole train is beset by discouragement can be read between the few lines the young girl writes from this time forward. However, it was not till they reached the boundaries of present Oregon that she ceased her entries, and then not till mutiny, and later, starvation, faced the brave little band.]
49th Day-
Father Lempfrit- I went ahead so that I could explore the country. About 9 o'clock in the morning the heat became more oppressive than usual, and by noon it was absolutely suffocating. About 3 o'clock the sky grew dark and at that moment I found an abandoned waggon. The storm soon broke, and happy to have this shelter I settled down under the waggon to wait for the storm to finish. At 5:30 our company arrived and found me quite dry!
Medorem Crawford- Buried Baily near Independence Rock 1 mile from camp. My feelings on this occasion can hardly be described. A young man in the vigor of youth and health taken from our company wrapped in a Buffalo Robe & and buried in this dismal Prairie. What sad tidings for his Parents & friends who like my own are far from here. Went out hunting Buffalo.
Joel Palmer- We this day traveled about twelve miles. Soon after starting we passed an excellent spring: it is to the right of the road, in a thicket of willows. One fourth of a mile further the road ascends a hill, winds round and passes several marshy springs. The grass is very good, but is confined to patches. Our camp was on a small branch running into the Sweet Water.
Mary Ann Boatman- We now take up our march for a long and weary journey of which seems as if there is no end. Toiling on and on, nothing out of every days occurrence happening to be worth mention, only tired and foot sore, all most wishing at times that we had not been carried away with fairy stories told by money makers of the far western country and, of its great recourse, making for homes to spring up in one night like Jonas gourd. We pushed on through sand, uphill and down. Nothing unusual occurring more than now and then a dispute about some nonsensical thing that no one paid any attention to. We came to a wide shallow sluggish stream of water called the Big Sandy. . . . Because it runs through quicksand . . . it was unsafe for a team to cross, except only in one place. As . . . the men had become use to all kind of precaution, a man was selected to ride across on horseback to try the bottom of the stream, as quicksand often changes its course. It was found by going up stream and driving down stream for a hundred yards and then making for the opposite bank, it would be safe. Only one team at a time was allowed to drive in for fear that something would go wrong. It was 10 clock A. M. By noon all was safely landed over.
50th Day-
Father Lempfrit- Whilst traveling through this country which has no vegetation but absinth [artemisia/sagebrush]. We encountered a rattlesnake for the first time. The sight of this horrible reptile really frightened me. This rattlesnake was nine years old. The age of a rattlesnake can be determined by the number of rings it has on its tail.... During the afternoon, we killed two more of them, both much bigger than the first one. I began to feel less afraid of this creeping insect, just the thought of which had made me shudder.
At about 5 o'clock that afternoon the captain invited me to accompany him and go with him to look for a good camp site. We came close to the river and it was raining. I had no wish to cross over it to the other side. The captain left me alone under a thicket. I wrapped myself up in a buffalo robe he had left me, also I had his gun which he left with me as he did not wish to take it with him in case it got wet. Just when he had reached the other side of the river I saw a little black heifer coming towards me. At first sight I thought it was one of the animals that belonged to our waggon-train that was coming up to me, but when I saw a large hump on its neck I no longer doubted that this was a young buffalo. I aimed my gun at the animal ... she was down. I came out of my little thicket and caught sight of the captain who yelled out to me, "Bravo, bravo, Doctor!" (For this is what the people of our caravan called me.) He himself had seen the young buffalo and was hurrying to cross the river so that he could kill it, but I had spared him the trouble. After congratulating me on my good shot he at once took out and cut the animal's throat to let the blood out. The caravan company arrived soon afterwards. I had the buffalo portioned out, reserving a good piece of meat for ourselves. The meat was really delicious and it lasted us for eight days.
Medorem Crawford- Stayed about 15 miles from camp last night in company with three others. Killed a Bull and as we had eaten nothing since we left camp we soon built a fire and roasted some meat, killed a cow about 11 o'clock, got into camp towards night found all the rest of the company had more meat than us. Today Capt. Hastings’ month being up; himself and Lieu Lovejoy were re-elected.
Joel Palmer- This day we arrived at Independence Rock. This is a solitary pile of gray granite, standing in an open plain. It is about one-eighth of a mile long and some six or eight rods wide, and is elevated about sixty or seventy feet above the plain. On the north-eastern side the slope is sufficiently gradual to be easily ascended. Portions of it are covered with inscriptions of the names of travelers, with the dates of their arrival — some carved, some in black paint, and others in red. Sweet Water, [the Sweetwater River, which they would follow through most of the rest of Wyoming] a stream heading in the Wind River Mountains, and entering the Platte, runs immediately along its southern side, leaving a strip of some twenty or thirty feet of grassy plain between the base of the rock and the creek. We encamped two miles above the rock, having traveled about thirteen miles.
Mary Ann Boatman- Now we have taken up our march again: men tired and sleepy, women dragging behind declaring that end of the road will never come, or we would never find it. The poor cattle almost unmanageable. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon the cattle began to snuff the air as if they smelled something that excited them. In a moment it was thought that water must be near. A man was sent on to see how far it was to water. He galloped a way as fast as the poor jaded horse could go, returning as speedly as he could, said it was 2 miles at the least and that a quarter of a mile before the river was reached there was a alkali pool that cattle would run in and drink and then die or be sick and be no use. The banks of it were covered with dead cattle and bones. Now what could be done. It was impossible to control them any longer. So every man but one to a team was detailed to go on and guard the pool so the cattle would not get to the alkali water. They pushed on as speedily as it was possible for them to do. But oh what a time the men had that were taking care of the oxen that was hitched to the wagons. They became wild and mad and could not be controled. So it was decided to unhitch as it was a sure fact that they would stampede. So all were unhitched from the wagons, but could not get them unyoked. As they started on the run, snorting and bellowing like a frighten band of buffalo, went tearing down to the alkali pool. The man on horseback rode in the lake to try to keep the cattle from drinking the lye water, as it was an tasted like strong lye. But they could not possibly keep them all from drinking some of the lye water, but few drank enough to hurt them. One of Boatman’s wheel oxen, old Duke was his name, got enough to lay him up for repairs for a few days. By giving him bacon grease and salt he got better but not well for 2 weeks. one of the lead oxen got to much and died in a few weeks. It looked discouraging to be thousands of mile from no where and your team begins giving out an dying and not knowing what perils was a head of us. The cattle and men have all quench their thirst. the next thing to do was to drive the oxen back to their wagons and bring them down to the river. As I have said, we were compeled to unhitch a mile from the river. It is now late in the evening all are at the river, a crooked swift stream. It must be forded like all that we had crossed.
51st Day-
Father Lempfrit- We left about 10 o'clock, and on our way, we passed a large rock on which a number of names were engraved. I read those of Fathers De Smet, Point, and Mengarini (Independence Rock.)
Medorem Crawford- Concluded to move camp nearer to the Buffalo. Started at 8 o'clock followed up the Sweet Water at the foot of a tremendous mountain composed of solid rock. Sweet water passes through a gap in this mountain, great curiosity. Camped on Sweet water at 3 o'clock. Went with 2 others about 1 mile from camp and ascended the mountain after having viewed the rock we decended about half way when we discovered a party of 200 Indians approaching camp. Made all possible haste to camp. Indians met us but let us pass. Found they had taken our Capt. & Lieu, prisoners at the Independence Rock where they had been taking observations and brought them to camp. Showed no hostility. Presented them with tobaco. Camped near us, traviled 12 miles.
Joel Palmer- We traveled about thirteen miles this day. Three miles brought us to the Gap, or Devil's Gate, as it is sometimes called. The Sweet Water breaks through a spur of the mountain, which from appearance is four or five hundred feet high. On the south side the rocks project over the stream, but on the north slope back a little. The whole mountain is a mass of gray granite rock, destitute of vegetation, save an occasional scrubby cedar or bush of artemisia From where the creek enters to where it emerges from this kanyon is three or four hundred yards. The water rushes through like a torrent. At the distance of one hundred rods south of this is the Gap, where the road passes; but the rock is not so high. South of this again is another gap, perhaps half or three-fourths of a mile wide. The rocks there rise mountain high." South-west of this is a valley extending as far as the eye can penetrate. As the road passes through this gap, it bears to the right, up the valley of the Sweet Water.
Mary Ann Boatman- There was no timber to be seen. But it was a pleasure to be away from alkali plains and get good pure water to use. The men folks were all busy, some taking care of the stock, others looking for fuel an kindling fires. The women folks with soap and towels were down at the river washing and combing as if to complete their toilet to attend a first class theater. On our return, fires were sending sparks and smoke high up in the air. The clink of the cow bell could be heard on the hill side. The men, some were lazily lounging on the ground while others were climbing up the cragged rocks that formed the canyon that the river ran through hundreds of feet below, looking in the sun set like a thread of silver. Those that were venturesome enough to go to the very highest point and look down said the river did not look larger than a little stream of a foot in width. The rocks come so near together at the top that one could jump from one side to the other. The name of this phenomena is Devils Gate. Why it was named that I cannot say unless some person would be dare devil enough to try to jump from one side to the other and perhaps miss his aim and loose his life. None in our company was foolish enough to try it. In after years I made an acquaintance with a lady who said they thought her brother tried to make the leap but failed and was found dead below.
[Editor's Note: Frederick Richard Fulkerson, After traveling for four days, with his son lying ill in the wagon, the Fulkerson wagon train arrived at a place near Devil's Gate called Rattlesnake Pass. Here James and Mary and two other families remained for five days to tend to the sick boy. Young Frederick died in the camp on July 1, 1847, and was buried at the foot of a boulder. An epitaph was painted on the face of the rock headstone, "FREDERIC RICHARD, SON OF JAMES M. & MARY FULKERSON, DIED JULY 1, 1847, AGED 18 Years."]
52nd Day-
Medorem Crawford- After calling on us & receiving some ammunition the Indians left & traviled up the River. We stay to make meat. Very warm. Several men gone hunting. Very difficult to get meat. Mr. Bennitt's daughter slightly wounded by an accidental discharge of a gun.
Joel Palmer- This day we traveled about twenty-two miles. The road sometimes leaves the creek for several miles, and passes over a barren, sandy plain; no kind of vegetation but the wild sage. We this day met a 'party of men from California and Oregon. A portion of those from California spoke unfavorably of that country; and those from Oregon spoke highly of the latter country. On this day's march we came in sight of the long-looked-for snow-capped mountains. They were the Wind River Mountains. On our right is a mass of naked rock; on our left and to the distance of ten or twelve miles is a high range of mountains, mostly covered with timber; whilst in the valley there is no timber, and much of the plain entirely destitute of vegetation. We encamped near the Narrows.
Mary Ann Boatman- The men decided it better to cross over that evening as we would be a way from the alkali water and that the grass would be more plentiful, as the stock had not had anything to eat for 36 hours. So it was decided to cross the river. The man on horseback rode in to try its depth, and found it so deep and swift that if every precaution were not taken that some of the wagons and its contents would be lost. It was decided to rim rope from the top of one standard to the other and put the wagon box on top to keep it from floating and to keep the contents dry. In a short time all was redy to start. The man on horseback went a head of the team as it went in the swift cold water. The Boatman boys went first. Oh, that hour of horror as I have always expressed it in my long life time. We were . . . all loaded in the wagon box up to the top of the standard, Willis Boatman, John Boatman, Mr. Warner, and myself.
As the oxen got mid way of the swift stream it was so deep and swift that the cattle had to swim and started down stream. Every moment we expected to be up set. John Boatman, dear boy, being the small one of the men, pull[ed] off his shoes and coat and run out on the tongue of the wagon and on the chain that held the 2 lead yoke of oxen. . . . By taking one of the lead steers by his horn and dropping himself in the water, holding to the horn of the swimming ox, he talked and slaped him on the cheek and finely suceeded in turning the team upstream. The water was so swift it washed John's pants and socks off. Poor boy he was all out of breath and said he could not have kept his hold much longer. Now do you wonder that I look back and think of it in any other light but horrible.
Now all were over that part of the stream. It was sun down and the moving city once more set up for the night. It was decided to lay bye a day and rest both man and beast, as there was grass for the cattle, altho they had to be driven quite a ways from camp to find good grazing. Plenty of wood and water as timber grew on the banks of the stream. We soon found out that this stream [The Sweetwater River.] had to be crossed nine times, as we had crossed it one time only eight more times for us to cross, but none was so deep and swift as the first one.
53rd Day-
Father Lempfrit- We have had very pleasant camp sites these last three days. We had an abundance of wood, water and grass. Fresh pasturage was most welcome. Also, we often had good fortune of having excellent trout to eat, for the river by which we camped was known as the Trout River [Sweetwater]. The trail then took us down a narrow gorge at the bottom of which was a river that we had to cross three times [Three Crossings]. When we emerged from the gorge we saw a range of snow-covered mountains in the distance [Wind River Mountains]. Then we went through a marshy valley [Ice Slough] where we were subjected to the annoyance of thousands of mosquitos. For over an hour I had to urge my pony to the gallop, otherwise he would surely have died for one had to halt for only a couple of minutes for him to be literally covered with those dangerous insects. Eventually we arrived at a very poor camp where there was no wood and no water.
Medorem Crawford- We reluctantly remained here today. Several gone hunting slight shower of rain. Considerable of meat brought in today.
Joel Palmer- We traveled about eleven miles today. There are two trails, which diverge below the Narrows. The nearest and best is that to the right up the creek, crossing it several times; they unite again near where we encamped. The road was good, but as usual very dusty. Our hunters wounded a buffalo and drove him into camp. About twenty men ran to meet him. He gave them battle. They fired a volley that brought him to his knees, and whilst in that position Mr. Creighton (a young man from Ohio) ran across the creek, intending to shoot the animal in the head. When Creighton had approached within ten or twelve feet, the enraged animal sprung to his feet and made at him. Creighton wheeled and "split" for the camp; the buffalo pursuing to near the bank of the creek, where he stopped. By this time others had arrived with guns, and the buffalo was compelled to yield. In the "spree" one of my horses was shot with a ball in the knee; no bones were broken, and he was able to travel, but he was a long time very lame.
Mary Ann Boatman- Now comes the 60 miles of desert to be crossed. After eating our dinners and letting the cattle eat and drink all they would, every canteen . . . keg, bottle, and vessel of every kind that would hold water was brought in use. It was the last watering place for 60 miles. We are off, all of the men and women walking, some with buckets filled with water carrying them in hand. Late in the evening a halt was called and the teams unhitched and guarded while they grazed an hour. We human animals eat our lunch. Then all was ready to make another start. The children and women were stowed away in the wagons, that is all that felt like riding after the oxen in the dark. I for one choose to walk most of the night. About mid night the teams got tired and restless. One teamster drove his team on a side hill and upset. Poor fellow, he may have gon to sleep for all anybody knew. When the hinder teams come up he had the oxen unhitched and [was] trying to right the wagon down side up. Our wagon came next to his. As luck was on his side, no person was in his wagon. He drove the provision and camp out fit for Scott. After an hour of work for all hands the wagon was rite side up and all moved on until daybreak. By this time both man and beast were both tired and thursta. We hurriedly gathered together a few buffalo chips, built a fire, boiled some water, made our coffee, fried some bacon, ate a hasty breakfast, let the teams rest a while, not durst to unyok for fear they would run away on the desert. It was so dry that no grass grew. At night no dew fell to moisten the earth. We did not see a living thing that made the wilderness its home. No not as much as a reptile.
54th Day-
Medorem Crawford- Started at 7 o'clock followed up the Sweet Water, tremendous Rocky Mountains on each side. Camped at 121 o'clock, good grass, water and wood, traviled 7 miles.
Joel Palmer This day we traveled about twenty-six miles. Four miles brought us to a marshy bottom, where was very good grass. In the centre of this quagmire and near where the road crosses the bottom is a spring of good water. Eight miles brought us to a small stream; but little grass. Six miles brought us to Sweet Water; crossed and left it and struck it again in six or eight miles. The grass here is good. Wild sage was our only fuel. This night there was a heavy frost.
Mary Ann Boatman- While the men were looking after the stock, the women folk were washing up dirty clothes and baking bread for another day. So you see all had his or her duty to preform. All slept sound that night but the guards who made ther regular change at midnight. I will now try to explain why the river had to be crossed so often. The river made its corse down a canyon and the wagon road followed the canyon. . . . As the canyon was narrow, the river shifted from one side to the other. So, in some places the river would be on one side of the canyon, then cross on the other side. So that accounts for so often crossing the stream.
55th Day-
Father Lempfrit- Today, Sunday, we had hoped to celebrate the Holy Mass, but as we had to get up very early to continue on our way we had to renounce this plan. My traveling companion [Father Lionnet] was very displeased and made a wry face. I was accustomed to his sulky behavior.
Medorem Crawford- Stay here today to dry what meat we have and get more. Hunters driven into camp by the Indians who are scattered in small parties all around us. Indians take 2 horses from Binnit's son & Weston. They came to camp very much frightened. Capt several others went out to see if they had any of our men several of whom were out yet. All came in safe. False alarm in the night. Brown lost a horse leg broke by a kick. Indians came back before noon a few came near camp & told many different stories. We observed they had more horses than when they went up. 280 were counted in their Party. They passed quietly by and said they were going home. Extremely warm.
Joel Palmer- Our cattle being much fatigued, we drove but five miles. The road is up the creek bottom, which is mostly covered with grass. A heavy frost: ice formed in buckets one-fourth of an inch thick. We here found the celebrated mountaineer Walker, who was traveling to Bridger's fort's.
Mary Ann Boatman- Now all are once more on the rough and tirsome journey. The road through the canyon is very rough. We toiled on all day and made about 10 miles, the cattle being so fagged out from the drive across the desert that it was prudent to take as good care of them as it was possible to do. Then came the hard drive to make the ascent out of the canyon that we had been traveling down for so many miles. Day after day we toiled on some times traveling after night when the moon give light so the road could be followed. Now the progress down is completed.
56th Day-
Father Lempfrit- Arrived at the height of land [South Pass]. Henceforth, we will find that the rivers have changed course, two waggon-trains had halted the day before.
Medorem Crawford- Started at 7, traviled on at a good pace until 10 met a party of Shian [Cheyenne] Indians. Camped within two miles of their Village, about noon the Chiefs together with some hundreds of others came to camp. We made them presents of ammunition, tobaco &c. and smoked with them. Started after dinner passed their village which consisted of several hundred lodges. Several Indians accompanied us to camp. Mr. Fitch Patrick judged they were in the village of Crows, Shians, & Sues between 4 & 5000. Many of our Company traded horses with them. Camped near sun set on Sweet Water, traviled 15 m.
Joel Palmer- We traveled about twenty-two miles this day. The road ascends the bluff and winds among rocky hills for six miles, passing over ledges that are entirely naked for rods. The appearance of the country is extremely barren. We passed several rivulets where small parties may obtain grazing for their stock. The day has been quite cold. The Wind River Mountains are on our right, about twenty miles distant. They presented a most grand appearance. Huge masses of ice and snow piled up peak upon peak, with large bodies of timber covering portions of the mountains. We viewed the southern termination of this range; but they extend to the north further than the eye can penetrate. The country between us and the mountains is rolling, and much of it apparently barren. Hard frost.
Mary Ann Boatman- After days of hard toil for man and beast, we now find a little stream to the left of the road, winding in and out through the rocks a silvery . . . thread. A halt was called and all with joy, greeted its refreshing beverage. Oh reader, on reaching its bank what pang of sudden fright met our gaze. There were three new graves, and on a sheet of writing paper were written these words, "We a company of emigrants of five wagons called a halt here yesterday noon finding a man about 40 years old, woman about 35, with front teeth filled with gold, a swingle around her neck, been dragged down to waters edge. A boy about 10 years old all have their throats cut from ear to ear. Advising all that coming to be on the look out for Indians." As to who had comited this crime, no one knew as there was no sign of anything left but the dead bodies and wagons. . . . The cattle were gone. It was all a mystery who had committed the crime. . . . Though no pleasant task to bring this sad after part to the notice of the reader, it is nevertheless a tail that may be interesting for him to ponder .. . and give him some idea ... of what misfortunes can befall those who first traversed that long and dangerous journey 2,000 miles through a wilderness its chief inhabitants inhuman savages that rove over hill and plain seeking whom he might devour. . . . Frequently small scouts of Indians pass us scantly dressed, if it could be called dress at all. What little they wore was shockingly indecent, being stolen from the wild animals, but not so graceful fitting as when belonging to its former . . . owner.
Agnes Stewart- Oh, my patience. I have not wrote for so long a time I have nearly forgotten how. So many things and strange places we have come over. We have come over so many high hills. We have come up and down till I forget most of what I wanted to write. How dreary everything looks to me. I feel like saying that life is a weary dream, a dream that never wakes. We do not know what is to be our lot in life, nor do we know what is before us in the world.
57th Day-
Medorem Crawford- Started at 7 o'clock, bad road. Crossed the Sweet Water a number of times, some very narrow passes between the mountains. Camped on S. W. at noon, traviled 7 miles a small party of Indians came to camp, about l00 more Indians came to camp at 2 o'clock. They were a war party of Sues & Shians who had been to fight the Snakes. They returned as usual in several parties another small party came up near night. A few came to camp to smoke.
Joel Palmer- This morning we ascended the bank on the south side of Sweet Water. Six miles brought us again to the creek, where is good grass in the bottom and willow for fuel. We crossed, went up the bottom two miles, and crossed back and left the Sweet Water. This day we passed over the dividing ridge which separates the waters flowing into the Atlantic from those which find their way into the Pacific Ocean. WE HAD REACHED THE SUMMIT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Six miles brought us to a spring, the waters of which run into Green river, or the great Colorado of the west.--Here, then, we hailed OREGON [Oregon Territory which comprised present day western Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and Washington states.]. Here we found a bottom covered with good grass, where we halted until four o'clock, P. M., when we again hitched up and took the plain for Little Sandy. Ten miles brought us to a dry branch, where by digging to the depth of one foot we procured water; but it was brackish, and had a very unpleasant taste. A white sediment, such as we had noticed elsewhere on the road, covered the surface of the ground. Ten miles more brought us to Little Sandy, which we reached at one o'clock in the night, having traveled thirty-one miles.
Mary Ann Boatman- After considering the circumstance, it was decided to move on a few miles and keep guards, both on cattle and camp. After eating a cold lunch and watering the teams, filling all the canteens with pure water, all was on the march again. Sometime between dark and midnight a halt was called. Some train a head of us had abandon a wagon. The night being dark and no fuel for fire the men . . . took it apart to build fires and to get our suppers with. A hasty meal . . . was eaten, cattle unyoked, guard stationed around camp and cattle. The men were almost exhausted and the women were all excited for fear of an attack of some kind. On knowledge of what it would be, nobody could sleep through the temporary city that night but the small children. Ere yet twilight had lifted the deepest shades of night from the plain and hill side on the morning of the next day, there was a stir and a bustle and hurryin to and fro through out the camp. As beautiful a sunrise as ever mantled the east or threw its first purest glories upon a long and gladdened west, found all things in order . . . the colony arranged [and] prepared for march, all glad that his or her scalp was not taken off. Through the long weary night perhaps all of the precaution taken was unnecessary, as no intruder of any kind molested us. But as human power is weak and what little strength he has so weakened by toil and lack of proper nourishment that it takes but little to discourage.
Keturah Belknap- Sublette Cutoff on the Big Sandy River [10 miles north of present-day Farson, Wyoming]. We will stay here at this nice water and grass till bout 4 o'clock. We will cook up a lot of provisions, then will take what is known as Greenwoods Cutoff and travel all night. Must fill everything with water.
58th Day-
Father Lempfrit- As we had the longest stage of our journey to make at a single stretch, that is to say forty-five miles without the prospect of finding either water or fodder en route, we remained at the same camping ground until 5:30 in the evening. We readied ourselves for traveling throughout the whole night. When we left at 5:30 we saw the cabins, or rather holes in which some very formidable Indians live. Their only food is the meat of wild sheep and a species of grasshopper called "crickets" here. These Indians hollow out pits in the earth and then cover them with the skins of sheep. After this, we continued on our trail which led through an arid desert. I remained on my pony until about 2 o'clock in the morning, and then, being much afraid of the cold, I asked the lay brother to mount my pony and I went and slept in the waggon. We stopped about 3 o'clock in the morning to make a little something to eat. Our animals did not have even a blade of grass. They looked at us very sadly.
Medorem Crawford- Started early left the creek & traviled over a hill of sand without a particle of grass ground covered with wild sage. Saw mountains with snowy sides far to the N. W. struck Sweet Water about noon stopped for dinner 2 hours crossed the creek several times afternoon. Camped on the creek good wood and grass traviled 15 miles.
Joel Palmer- [Editor’s Note: At the “Parting of the Ways” just a few miles east of the crossing of the trail over the Little Sandy River, Palmer’s wagon train takes the Ft. Bridger route and our other wagon trains take the Sublette Cutoff. The two trails join again after about two weeks of travel. Because of this, we will not have Palmer’s diary until after the wagon trains enter Idaho.]
Keturah Belknap Same location as above. It's morning. I have been awake all night watching the little boy. He seems a little better; has dropped off to sleep. The sun is rising and it shows a lot of the dirtiest humanity ever was seen since the Creation. We just stop for an hour and eat a bite and let the teams breath again. We divide the water with the oxen. George has sat on his seat on the front of the wagon all night and I have held the little boy on my lap on a pillow and tended him as best as I could. I thot in the night we would have to leave him here and I thot if we did I would likely have to stay with him but as the daylight arrived, we seemed to get fresh courage.
[Editor’s Note- With the loss of Joel Palmer’s diary notes for the next two weeks, the loss of Keturah Belknap who stopped writing in her diary in Idaho and Agnes Stewart whose wagon train taking the Greenwood cutoff shortly after traveling through Idaho, we will have a diminished number of accounts of the trail. To keep each day interesting, I will be including a number of new diarists and their accounts that correspond to the part of the trail that our wagon train is following through the rest of Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon. The first of these new guest diarists, is below.]
Ester Bell Hannah - July 4, 1852 Sabbath This is the anniversary of our National Independence, we celebrate it on the banks of the Little Sandy nearly 1000 miles from civilization and more than 2000 miles from our beloved home in Pa. We have cold high winds today blowing the sand and dust in every direction, even our victuals are covered with it before we can eat them. This morning we had another division in our company, our Captain and two other families left us making in all four wagons and a carriage, they wished to travel today. The company took a vote on it, all the rest wished to remain and they left. We are still a Presbyterian Colony... We had no preaching today owing to high winds whirling the dust in every direction.
59th Day-
Father Lempfrit- We saw we were in the middle of a large nation. I gave several of them tobacco and some biscuits. These Indians were on the warpath, and all were mounted on superb horses. I observed that the women also were going along with their men. One of these poor creatures I saw asked me for some bread for her small child. I asked here where the child was, then she showed it to me, pulling away the little cloth that concealed it. What I saw was a tiny face, absolutely yellow, that one could have taken for a little Egyptian mummy. The child woke up and she at once started to rock the little board to which the child was attached, as if nailed. For the poor little creature could not move an inch. It was imprisoned in a casket shaped like a large boot, the front of which was laced up. The child kept crying all the time, so she took the little box off the saddle-bow and gave it something to drink. But what I saw then was not a breast, but some kind of narrow pendant sheep-skin bag. The poor little thing sucked at it all the same. This unfortunate woman was also carrying all the warlike paraphernalia of her husband, his lance, his quiver, and his shield.
Medorem Crawford- Started early stopped on the creek for dinner 2 hours. Camped near sun set on Big Sandy Creek traviled 20 miles.
Helen Carpenter, 1856- A real truly guide board, a very modest one, informs us that it is 12 miles to the Green River.
Francis Sawyer, 1852- I saw a lady where we nooned today, who had a fine son three days old. The arrival of the little stranger had made it necessary for his friends to go into camp for a week or more, and they had settled down to make themselves at home, quietly and patiently awaiting the time that they might resume their march. The lady was comfortably situated and in good spirits. I have heard of several children being born on the plains, though it is not a very pleasant place for the little fellows to first see the light of day.
[Editor's Note: Mary Ramsey Miller Fulkerson- Less than two weeks after the death of her son, Frederick, James' wife, Mary, died of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever on July 14th. She was buried next to Names Hill on the Green River crossing of the Sublette Cutoff, 25 miles north of Kemmerer, Wyoming. Later pioneers saw the engraving on a sandstone slab above the grave: "Mary, consort of J.M. Fulkerson, Died July 14, 1847." The site of Mary Fulkerson's grave became a burial ground for other victims of the trail and eventually developed into a pioneer cemetery. The cemetery was destroyed by a pipeline project in the 1930's.]
60th Day-
Medorem Crawford- Rainy morning Started 7. Commenced raining very cold & unpleasant. Considerable decending ground. Camped on the creek at 3 o'clock traviled 15 miles. Much talk about dividing the company at Green River.
Agnes Stewart- Traveled half the day and camped out along the bluffs. One of the oxen nearly gave out. How fast time flies.
Keturah Belknap- We are coming near to the Green River; will have to ferry it with the wagons. The cattle will be unyoked and swim over; some Mormons are here. They have fixed up a ferry and will take us over for a dollar a wagon. It will take all day to get over, it is the 4th of July. While some are getting over, they have got Hawley's wagon over and have got our anvils and are celebrating the Fourth. The Jacksons are doing their best to entertain the crowd; there is three of them.... Watts and the sheep pulled out and fell behind. I got the blame for the split. The old Mother Watts said after they got through "Yes, Geo. Belknap's wife [Keturah] is a little woman but she wore the pants on that train." So I came into notoriety. But to return to the trail, they say we are on the last half of the journey now.
[Editor’s Note: Apparently, Keturah stopped writing in her diary after this. Her son, Lorenzo, was born on the trail just one month later near Fort Bosie, Idaho on August 10, 1848. He lived to his 78th year.]
Jane Tourtillot, 1862- July 28. We passed by the train I have just spoken of. They had just buried the babe of the woman who died days ago and were just digging a grave for another woman that was run over by the cattle and wagons when they stampeded yesterday. She lived twenty- four hours and she gave birth to a child a short time before she died. The child was buried with her.